Why I Love ‘Mecca’ by Susan Straight

My father was a geologist and I went to kindergarten in Mecca California while my father was mapping the San Andreas Fault. We lived in an adobe bungalow nestled in a date grove and my best friend was Maria who’s parents were migrants and worked in the date orchards. I spoke no Spanish and Maria spoke no English but Maria would come to our dusty front porch and we played with Jenny Dolls. I was allowed to go to their families date grove encampment some nights. I remember holding her young fathers hand and walking the raised furrows of the grove and watching the women make tortillas. My father was so much older.

In 2010 on a final desert road trip with my father to Mecca, the adobe cottage was abandoned but still standing.


I had one other friend, a boy of about 8 or 9, the son or grandson of the old woman who lived in the main house. He and I would crawl on our bellies through the mesquite and tamarack. We built forts and would catch scorpions.

Every day, my father went to the field to map the geology. My mother packed his tin lunch box and seldom did he return home without a horned lizard, tarantula or snake tucked inside the empty tin. This is why I love reptiles, insects and arachnids. I was in Mecca less than a year but the desert is still my happy place.


Throughout my childhood, I went on many canyon and desert trips with my parents and in 2010, I took my father on a final road trip to his beloved desert; Joshua Tree, Mecca, Painted Canyon and the Salton Sea. He passed away at age 99 in May of 2014.

2010 Road trip with my father – Joshua Tree scenic view point overlooking the Coachella Valley

Everything about Mecca by Susan Straight hits my heartstrings. Truly an “engaging novel about a network of people related by blood, love and duty.” Washington Post.

The Baja Nature Channel

Many of our jewelry designs are inspired by nature. I travel frequently down to the tip of Baja where the desert meets the Sea of Cortez. Yesterday, while reading on our ocean view deck I spotted turmoil on the  oceans surface just beyond the surf. A huge school of Mobula Devil Rays were circling, pop-corning and glinting in the Baja sunshine. Although I have seen this a few times before, I am not usually down here in late April. Throughout the day, rays would jump and I would catch their diamond sparkle as they performed acrobatics.

School of Munk’s Devil Rays – Wikipedia photo

The Munk’s Devil Ray is the smallest of the Mobula genus and their cousin is the huge Manta Rays. The Devil Ray is a meter across with two frontal lobe fins that look a bit like horns, giving them their nick name. These frontal fins help to funnel water and food into their mouth. Unless you are a plankton they are harmless and during late spring and late autumn, as the currents change bringing in schools of plankton, they congregate by the tens of thousands to feed, mate and give birth.  They give birth to only one pup every 3-5 years. Although they may seem plentiful, they are on the near threatened list, a causality of by-catch and of being the favorite food of the Orca. 

Spiny Tail Rock Iguanas reside within the crevices of the rocky wall of our Baja casita. Whenever I’m at our Baja home, feeding papaya and bananas to our iguanas is my favorite pastime. I work on our websites, write, read and paint. I’m often  distracted looking out our many windows to see what our iguanas are doing. Spike is our handsome black and tan male and about 20” long. We have five resident iguanas living in our rock condo wall. Today, I caught Spike and a smaller female, head bobbing (a mating courtship ritual) and circling each other head to tail. As far as I could see his desire was left unfulfilled and she scampered from the wall and into her rock crevice. “Not today dear…” The pesky chipmunks eat the majority of the papaya and banana and our neighborhood burros stretch their necks over the wall trying to reach the treats. I’ve spotted several juvenile Spiny Tail Iguanas as well. They are a gorgeous bright green and we named our January 2023 juvenile Squirt. I haven’t seen Squirt this April, but he or she may have matured and lost its vibrant coloring. 

Spike, on the rock wall of our bungalow – photo by Marty

Today is May 8th, 2023. I’m starting to shut down our off the grid bungalow in Zacatitos. I looked out the window and on the rock wall and there was a lizard pile. I grabbed my binoculars and Spike was mating with Cholla. Their tails and bodies were intertwined in what I perceived to be an uncomfortable position. Spike was biting the frill on Cholla’s neck to keep her still and in position. By the time I got my camera they were finished with their lovemaking. I’m very excited to anticipate more spiny tail iguanas and verify that Cholla is female. She’s grown, but not nearly as big as Spike and until a few minutes ago, I didn’t know if she might be a young male and their head bobbing activities were territorial or romantic. These iguanas breed in the Spring and it will be 8 – 10 weeks before the female digs her nest and up to 30 eggs are laid. The eggs will hatch 75-90 days later and there is a 50.3% survival rate. I am Exited to be a great grandma in early October!

Buzzard and Crested Caracara

My favorite Baja bird is the Buzzard. They catch the thermals and I watch them soaring over our Baja bungalow. I almost always see them circling Punta Gorda, the rocky point that rises 300 feet above Zacatitos and is the west end bookend for our off grid community.  Prior to the Hurricane Odile, buzzards would perch on he frame of our neighbors palapa. These majestic birds of prey are excellent scavengers and do their job well, keeping the desert free of carrion. They have a wing span of 3-4 feet and can live up to 25 years although their average lifespan is 8. They are monogamous and lay 3-4 eggs each breeding season. Pictured, perching on an adjoining cactus is a Crested Caracara, sometimes referred to as the Mexican Falcon. It frequently joins the vultures to feast on carrion and can be spotted walking on the ground as well as perching on the highest cactus.

Desert Cardinals – It’s wonderful to see a splash of color against the muted colors of the Baja desert. There is actually color everywhere but you have to look a harder here to find it. Seeking out the surprises nature presents is a bit of a scavenger hunt in Baja. There are many cardinals here. The desert dwelling cardinals are similar to the Northern Cardinal but not the crimson red. In Baja their plumage is grey and orange with red highlights on face, crest, belly, wings and tail. We hear them often a part of the chorus of many distinct bird calls. Their song is high pitched with a loud clear whistle. The desert is a noisy place and geckos bark at night. (I smile to the gecko chirp in my dreams.) Unfortunately there is also the endless sound of construction as paradise is paved.

Cardinal defending his territory from the handsome bird in the mirror. Photo by Marty

Apparently we are parking our 4-runner in one males territory. He mistakes his reflected image in our rear view mirrors and relentlessly challenges the invading male in the reflection.  I’m pausing my writing to go cover the mirrors lest he have a heart attack. 

Cardinals have 3 to 4 broods each year consisting of 3 to 4 eggs each. They are mostly monogamous but will choose a new mate if their mate dies. Cardinals are not on the endangered pieces list. 

Scorpions and the Tailless Whip Scorpions. I see the creepy but harmless tailless scorpions often. They sometimes surprise me in our sink by coming up through the drain pipe. I slip a glass over the intruder, slide a spatula below and return it to its outside habitat. Several nights ago, one greeted us on the steps to our casita. Happily for both of us, I had a flashlight and did not step on him. We also have hundreds of tiny scorpions that hide in our rock wall, under rotted cactus skeletons and under desert rocks. The Scorpions are venomous but not aggressive and we have a mutual agreement to leave each other alone. Look don’t touch. They are easy to spot at night under the ultra violet flashlight and glow green. Going on a scorpion hunt is a fun distraction for the grandkids and the adults as well. Venomous and poisonous are very different. Many plants and animals are poisonous but only if you eat it or them. Venomous means that the bite or the sting from the creature can cause harm. Biting or stinging is usual the creatures last resort. Live and let live.

Burros – Dozens of semi wild burros roam the dirt roads of Zacatitos, Baja. ‘One Ear’ a weather beaten male has probably fathered many of our local burros. They are smart and personable and sometimes annoying. They are always asking for treats. Zacatitos would not be Zacatitos without them. Donkey verses Burro is mostly a matter of semantics but burros tend to be smaller and gray or brown with a stripe down their back. Just like an elephant, a burro never forgets.

Walking Stick Insect – Walking Stick Insects are often referred to as the leaf insects, ghost or phantom bugs for their ability to camouflage. Camouflage protects them from predators but many have a secondary line of defense such as spines or toxic secretions. Here again is an example of poisonous versus venomous. They do not bite or sting but may be extremely unpleasant to eat or digest. They hide in plain sight, some even changing their coloration and predators instinctively know that they are not tasty. This wide order of insects are found on all continents except Antarctica and are most prevalent in the tropics and subtropics. Spotting one of these bugs in the Zacatitos desert is a real treat! These amazing insects come in shapes and colors that are beyond even Pixar’s and Disney’s imagination.

Walking Stick insect in proportion to Art’s hand. – Photo by Marty

Southern Desert Horned Lizard.

We spotted this Southern Desert Horned Lizard, ‘Horny Toad’ at the Melling Ranch in Northern Baja. The ranch has been family owned for 115 years and both my grandfather and father spent considerable time there. It is an effort to drive there but Art and I visited it in 2107 making a pilgrimage to the Melling Ranch a 3 generation tradition. The ranch is the gateway to the Sierra San Pedro Martir National Park. Horned lizards have a distinctive wide and flat body and pointed spikes that protrude from the back of their heads. They are relatively small ranging between 3”-4” in length. They prey primarily on invertebrates, ants being one of their favorite treats. They are a gentle species although two of their defense mechanisms are puffing up when threatened and squirtng blood from their eyes.  As a child, I had several catch and release horned lizards while my father was mapping the San Andreas fault in the California high desert. I remember being 7 years old in Castaic and hand feeding my various horned lizards squirming ants held between tweezers. After their meals, I would gently turn them over, stoke their incredibly soft bellies and they would sleep. Perhaps they were playing dead as another defense mechanism but I loved them so. I have been especially bonded to lizards since then.

Peninsular Leaf-toed Gecko

We see these nocturnal geckos occasionally and hear their sharp bark and chirp frequently at night. I count the chirps in my dreams and it is often 9 in quick succession followed by a responding 9 chirps from a nearby gecko. I assume this is their internet dating code asking who wants to hang out, eat bugs and mate? We have many living in and around our off the grid Baja bungalow and they are efficient insect exterminators. Moths and spiders beware. As with all geckos, they have sticky toes that afford them the magical ability to effortlessly scale walls and glass and rest comfortably on the ceiling near light fixtures waiting to ambush the next unsuspecting insect.  The ones I encounter are between 3” -5” long with huge bug eyes. (the better to see those bugs in the dark) They are harmless to all but insects. They are tan and brown spotted or sometimes tan and brown banded with splayed sticky toes and incredibly soft bellies. Their nightly calls lower my blood pressure and I smile in my dreams. 

Baja Rattlesnake

The beautiful, black, brown and tan diamond pattern Baja Rattlesnake inhabits the deserts of the Baja Peninsula and many of the islands off the Pacific coast of Baja. They are venomous with a distinctive tail rattle that they will vibrate to warn creatures to keep at a distance. They prefer to be left alone and politely announce their presence should you inadvertently wander too close. Should you get close enough to gaze into their eyes, you can distinguish a viper by their vertical pupils. Few people die from a rattlesnake bite but you should seek immediate medical treatment. The bite will be painful but venom is not always injected. The dine on small rodents, lizards and centipedes and have 2- 7 young a season. An adult Baja Rattlesnake is about 3 feet long and in 2015 we were greeted by a juvenile on the bottom step of our stairway and Art carefully relocated it to the nearby brush. Neither snake or human were harmed. The same year, while walking to dinner at Zac’s we saw a 4 foot adult sinuously weave through the sand and low ground cover. Gorgeous and graceful. I managed to video this encounter but when he turned back with a warning glare and rattle, I kept my distance. 

Juvenile Baja Rattlesnake

Flattie House Spider

Meet Star, our friendly flattie house spider. There are many species of these spiders throughout the world and they are referred to as a flatties because of their low profile. They are harmless and I have become attached to Star. She is nocturnal and greets me most nights on the wall of our bathroom. She is a little larger than a quarter and speckled a pretty brown and tan. She is gone in the morning and on the two nights that I didn’t see her, I was disappointed. 

Meet Star, our Flattie House Spider

Tarantula

Although I’ve only seen a few tarantulas in Zacatitos, there are 66 species in Mexico. Recently Art and I spotted one on the road between Zacatitos and the paved highway and stopped to photograph it. After a brief photo op, it scurried under our car tire for protection and Art and I argued for some time because I would not let him drive away until I was sure she was safely off the road. They are mostly docile and their bite is no worse than a bee sting. They burrow and prey on grasshoppers, beetles and an occasional small lizard. They can live up to 25 years! Not that I want one but they make good pets and unfortunately the illegal pet and souvenir trade industry is threatening many species. For years I did Craft festivals and was horrified and disgusted to see tarantulas, scorpions, beetles and butterflies encased in plexiglass. 

Zacatitos Tarantula

In 2014, John and I traveled to Cambodia and Myanmar. We were not on a tour but arranged for independent guides and drivers. A highlight was a stop at a huge roadside insect market. I was both horrified and fascinated as our Cambodian guide crunched spiders with gusto telling us they tasted just like potato chips. I did not indulge but naturally John nibbled on one. During the Khmer Rouge, food was scarce and insects became a staple to the Cambodian diet. 

Land Hermit Crabs 

When I first came to Zacatitos Baja, I would frequently find Hermit Crabs on the beach and I kidnapped one or two to take back to our Zacatitos Casita for an overnight airbnb. The next morning I would return them to the exact place on the beach where I had found them. I’m sure they didn’t enjoy their vacation but I loved them so! I named two Skuttle and Butt and they would race around our casita deck until I tucked them into a pail for the night. I know they are omnivorous and I offered them all sorts of edible treats and I collected larger shells to offer the crab whose house seemed too small. I never successfully convinced any to relocate to a larger shell. I have now learned that they can live up to 30 years, need both land, water and the companionship of a colony to thrive. They also need deep sand in which to molt. I see fewer and fewer on the beach today.  That may be because I am aging and not making as many long beach walks or that paradise is being paved. Buying a hermit crab as a pet is condemning it to misery and an early death. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/invertebrates/facts/hermit-crabs

Skuttle and Butt – Zacatitos Hermit Crabs – Photo by Marty

Baja Black Tail Deer

It’s May of 2013 and we have seen several of these lithe Black Tail Deer in our arroyo, mostly at sunset. The night we arrived a young buck was silhouetted in the dirt driveway to our casita. These Black Tail Deer weigh up to 225 pounds and are under 4 feet tall and less than 5 feet long. Mule Deer are much heftier and larger. Black Tail Deer have wider and longer black tails that stand out against their white rump. These deer bound quickly along the arroyo but our glimpses are fleeting and too far away for me to get a photo with my I-phone.  I hope to see another this evening and get a better visual understanding. Our neighbors tell of antler sheds that they have found in the arroyos and on Punta Gorda. 

Black Tail Deer – Wikipedia

Baja Rock Crabs

There are thousands of  rock crabs swarming the rocky coastline of the east cape of Baja.  Apparently there are 3 types of rock crabs  between Southern Baja and Washington State but our Zacatitos rock crabs fit none of the other descriptions. Ours are brown with blue dappling and in Zacatitos, the ocean-slick, quartz veined granite with is alive with crab motion. Adult crabs  range between  6” – 8” across and their life span is between 5-6 years. The females have wider abdomens where they carry their eggs.  The crabs grow in steps, molting their external carapace at each step. Mating takes place when the females have soft shells just after molting and a male crab often protects the molting female by holding her under his abdomen. To this human, this seems so very sweet and perhaps its natures a preamble to foreplay. The crabs scavange as well as catch unsuspecting prey. 

The Most Dangerous Catch

Many of you have met my son John at a bay area art and wine festival, at the Vallejo Pirate Festival or at the Maryland Renaissance festival. 

Alisha and John at the Vallejo Pirate Festival in June 2019

This week John embarks on the high seas out of Dutch Harbor Alaska as a fish observer. He will be contracting for NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association) recording the weights and and types of fish caught on various fishing vessels that he is assigned to. John graduated from S.F.S.U. with a degree in marine biology and limnology and although he’s had many jobs before, (including wearing a pirate hat at Marty Magic festivals) this will be his first job in his field of study. 

I’m grateful that his 3 month contract is during the Alaskan summer and pray that his intensive safety training will not be needed. He is wearing my Angler Fish Pendant as a good luck amulet. Safe adventures John!

Stunning Beaches and Coastlines

We live in Santa Cruz by the Monterery Bay Marine Sanctuary. Much of our inspiration at Marty Magic is derived from the ocean and the magic of nature. Here are a few of the most inspiring beaches and coastlines where we have left our footprints.

For the past ten years, our family has spent time each year on the East Cape of Baja. The breathtaking  beaches and solitude are inspiring.

Cresting wave on the East Cape of Baja
Rocky shore on the East Cape of Baja

In 2007, Art, John and I lived in Naha, Okinawa for several months. We took frequent trips to surrounding Ryukyu islands.

Tokashiki Island,  Okinawa, Japan
Hermit crab on Tokashiki Island rocks, Okinawa, Japan
Kumejima Island, Okinawa, Japan

In 2010, John and I had a mother and son adventure in Australia. I rented a car and we drove the Great Ocean Road. Rainbows and spending time together was wonderful and the coastlines were spectacular.

Morning rainbow above the coast of the Great Ocean Road. Victoria, Australia
Coastline along the Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia.
The Twelve Apostles at dawn, Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia.
The Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia.

In 2013, John and I traveled to India and returned through the U.A.E. Women were wading in the ocean wearing their hijab. The day was hazy and the silhouette of the Burj Al Arab was in the distance.

John on the beach at Dubai with Burj Al Arab in the background 

In 2015, Art, John and I traveled with Art’s brother to the Philippines. We spent much of our time in the high mountains of Banaue, treking rice paddies. (deserving of it’s own photo blog post.) We ended our trip in El Nido, Palawan, an island paradise.

The limestone cliffs of El Nido, Palawan, Philippines
Entering a cove in El Nido, Palawan, Philippines. 
Exiting the cove by man power at low tide. El Nido, Palawan, Philippines
Alonha sunset, Palawan, Philippines.
Dumaguete, Philippines
App Island. Below the surface is a pristine coral reef.
Art and John readying for their first dive at Apo Island, Philippines.

 In 2016, Art, John and I flew to Italy and traveled north through Italy and then south along the coastline of Croatia.

Amalfi Coast, Italy

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy
Istria Croatia
John diving into a swimming hole off the Dubrovnik city wall. Croatia.
A five island hopping trip from Split, Croatia. John dove and returned with an Adriatic crab carapace. 

In 2017, Alisha and I traveled to Indonesia.  After visiting our artist friend Tabra, we continued onto Flores Island and onto Komodo and Rinca Islands, home to the Komodo Dragons.

Alisha swinging at the edge of the blue stone beach, Indonesia. 
Blue stone beach, Flores Island, Indonesia
Coral Island of Riuing, Indonesia

In 2018, Art and I traveled to Portugal and Spain. The beaches and coastline of southern Portugal were breathtaking.

The colorful cliffs of Salema, Portugal
Sagre point, a windswept promontory. Algarve, Portugal

In August of 2018 Alisha and I traveled to Australia. We looked for the illusive cassowary bird and walked warily on many beaches, lest a saltwater crocodile pay us a surprise visit.

Bondi Beach, New South Wales, Australia
Cape Tribulation,  Queensland, Australia
Wurrumiyanga beach, Tiwi Island, Northern Territory, Australia
Mindil Beach at sunset, Darwin, Australia

Below are some very striking coastlines and cityscapes within the United States.

A view of New York City taken from Hoboken, N.Y. at sunset

We don’t need to travel afar to be inspired by the ocean.  Santa Cruz, Capitola and Big Sur have some of the most beautiful beaches and coastlines on our planet.

Bixby bridge and the Big Sur coastline, California. 

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur, California.

Alisha and Molly, Capitola beach jetty, California

As time allows, I will be adding to this beach and coastline photo gallery.

Celebrating 98 Remarkable Years!

Your 98th Birthday Party at Casa!  5/1/2015 – Happy to be all together!

Dear Daddy,
Your family wishes you an especially Happy 98th Birthday!! Here are some photos to remind you of our last weekend’s celebration together to commemorate your special day. Today, May 12th, is your actual birthday and we wish we could be with you today!

Below are many photos to keep us close together, in our hearts and memories, today and always.

Last weekend, May 1-2-3, 2015; your extended family gathered together to celebrate your 98th Birthday!

Celebrating your 98th Birthday! 5/1/2015
Marty and her Father, 5/1/15
Molly & Great Grandpa
Day out at the Santa Barbara Zoo, 5/1/15
John C. John B. Alisha M. Scott and Shari Macklin. 5/1/15
John C. and John B.

Grandpa’s 98th Birthday!

Sterling, John C. John B.

Happy 98th Birthday from all of us!

Happy Birthday….With Love,
Marty, Art, Alisha, John, Molly, Sterling, Scott and Shari. xox

From Calder to Arcimboldo






(My first post has mysteriously disappeared.) Nevertheless, Art and I had a marvelous time back East. We attended the Maryland Renaissance Fair on Pirates weekend, and spent two full days exploring and being inspired by the museums and the art that Washington D.C. serves up on golden platters. Calder has always been a favorite of ours, but on this trip we discovered the very “trippy” paintings of 15th century Giuseppe Arcimboldo. 15th century art blended with surrealism. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giuseppe_Arcimboldo

Good Times at the Maryland Renaissance Festival






Each year, I travel to Annapolis Maryland to meet with my collectors at the Maryland Renaissance Festival. I have had a booth at this fair for nearly 25 years and have built up quite a following. The event is held for 9 weekends each year. Art and I attended last weekend which was “Pirates” weekend. A good time was had by all! There are sill 4 more weekends remaining and the show is great fun! The fair continues weekends only from October 2-3 through October 23-24.

Baja Road Trip






With our official business in La Paz complete, I want to explore the city. We ask directions to the Old Town and the Malacon; navigate there easily and find a suitable parking space. It is a glorious day; hot but cooled by the sea breeze with a clear and blinding blue sky above and intoxicating turquoise water beyond in the bay; perfection. We wander; poke into a few shops and one charming gallery where an endearing clay monster calls to me and I adopt him. The shop keeper carefully wraps his protruding extremities in bubble wrap; I part with my $15.00 and we continue our leisurely stroll. We want to exchange a $100 American bill and stop into several banks before finding one that will accept American currency. Finally successful and hungry, we begin our search for a restaurant for lunch. For those of you who don’t know our bad habits, Art and I have an extremely difficult time deciding on any restaurant. Art is always certain that a better choice is just around the corner; or we have different criteria, so we often read menu after menu before making a decision. Today is no different, but we eventually ask the advice of an inn keeper and following his directions we choose an open air restaurant along the Malacon. I think that Art and I both know that the food here will leave us disappointed but nevertheless, we order a platter of the days catch to share. We are visiting off season and there are not a lot of tourists in town; a good thing. A large soft drink truck is making it’s delivery to the restaurant, blocking our ocean view and the food is disappointing. We hastily depart La Paz for our drive back towards San Jose Los Cabos.

I love road trips, especially when I am not the driver and I successfully navigate us through the maze of La Paz and back onto highway 1 heading south. When Art grows tired, I take over the driving and when we pass through El Triunfo, Art spots a road side gallery of some interest and suggests that we turn around. I make an abrupt U turn and pull off into the dirt parking area in front of a simple roadside shop. A lone man sits reading in a chair on the raised shaded porch of the shop. After brief introductions and a look around the gallery, he invites us to sit down and visit. Link is in his mid to late 60’s. He has opted for Mexican citizenship and has purchased considerable property in El Triunfo where he is has built his home and is the process of constructing an inn. He has a local sweetheart. Before long, the three of us hop into our rental car to drive the short distance back into town so that he can show us his digs and to share a drink together. El Triunfo was a mining town and the smelting tower still stands, constructed by Eiffel. We walk the circle of the town in just a few minutes ending back at the local cafe, resurrected by a California man from Camarillo. Link orders a beer and Art and I share a coffee. The pastries are heavenly. We depart two hours later with regrets and drive another hour towards Los Barriles where we find a room at the Los Barriles Hotel, recommended by Link.

Art wishes to rest so I leave him napping and I walk down to the beach to enjoy the magic of the afternoon light on the water. Los Barriles is an American enclave. There is not much that is authentic here, but the evening light on the bay glows bright. A few local men fish for their catch and ostentatious American yachts are moored in the tranquil bay beyond. After an hour wandering along the beach, I return to our large, simple and clean motel room and rouse Art. We set out in search of dinner but the restaurant choices are few. I do not want to settle on the sports bar so we walk a block further down the street until we are accosted by a woman from Tahatchapi, California, who recently opened a small sushi restaurant in Barriles. She guilt trips us into eating at her establishment but happily our decision results in two of the most delicious Tempura Shrimp dinners that we have ever eaten. Her small establishment fills up with another 4 or 6 patrons and we nosh and drink heartily before walking back to our motel. Art and I take a late night dip in the hotels pool; another couple also enjoys the cool of the water on a warm Baja night.

Baja Escapade





Before my summer shows begin, Art and I decide to take mini getaway to San Jose Los Cabos. Alaska Air offers inexpensive direct flights between San Francisco and San Jose leaving late morning and arriving San Jose early afternoon. We fly out on May 10th. The direct flight is just under 3 hours and we arrive shortly after 2:30 p.m. With just carry on luggage we are through customs quickly. Renting a car always makes Art nervous, but a friend has suggested U-Save car rental where we expect the rate to be $50 a day including insurance. Exiting the terminal we are bombarded by dozens of rental car shuttle drivers and taxi drivers, each one ploying for our business and promising the best rates. I intentionally did not make rental car reservations since on a previous trip we paid nearly double by reserving in advance. Overwhelmed by their aggression and with the rental car lots within view, Art and I set out walking the two long and dusty blocks until we come to U-Save car rental, sandwiched between Thrifty and Euro Car rentals as promised. We negotiate the expected rate of $50 per day including all inclusive zero deductible insurance. I sign paperwork that I can’t read hoping that what I am signing is what we have been promised. With Art in the drivers seat of a small Dodge, we exit the airport and I navigate us in the direction of La Paz. We drive Highway 1 north, the old road that connects San Jose Los Cabo with La Paz. This two lane road is narrow and winding and without a graded shoulder. If one swerves off the edge a 12″-18″ drop is most certain to cause an unpleasant accident. Gas tankers and trucks roar towards us at 100 kilometers an hour and “pelegrosa” curves are boldly marked with a series of yellow arrows and rows of imbedded metal road nodules. When we enter the small towns, very serious road bumps necessitate slowing to a crawl, and even at 5 kilometers an hour, they are jolting. Aside from the challenges of driving an unfamiliar road, the landscape is starkly beautiful. The desert is lush with fields of iconic saguaro cacti, bursting with orange blooms, and the montage of purple shadowed mountains morphs at every curve. The sky is a brilliant blinding blue, contrasting with the with the near white sand. We cross dozens of bridges spanning vast dry washes and as the road climbs, there are deep canyons lush with oasis of palms and small villages.
With our minds on rental cars, we neglected to change money at the airport, and foolishly we have no small bills, only three $100 bills. Finding a bank or ATM is a high priority and our first foray into a small town is unsuccessful. Further on, in La Brirreles, we find several closed banks, and one welcome ATM that magically regurgitates $100 worth of Mexican pesos.
There is an hour time difference between California and Baja and it is nearly 7:00 p.m. when we arrive at the outskirts of La Paz. We have some business to attend to in the morning and we successfully navigate to our destination. We are welcomed and shown to a guest cottage for the night. On a casual glance, the accommodations look fine, tucked behind the main house and adjoining a lovely garden. We quickly deposit our luggage in the room, close the French doors and walk next door to the restaurant within the shopping center. It is nearly 8:00 p.m. and we have no energy left to explore for an alternative dinner spot. The restaurant is tiny and the air within is still and hot. Unfortunately, the two tables outside sit in the sun and even at 8:00 P.M. the temperature is hot. We choose a table inside and order two icy margaritas. They arrive in large fluted handmade glasses and one each is enough to alter our consciousness. We relax into the Baja experience. Dinner is surprisingly good; my fish fresh and smothered with a lime salsa and the traditional Mexican platter that Art orders is good.
Returning to our guest cottage we find that there is no toilet paper or bath towels and the sheets are far from pristine. Happily, I have packed a set of clean sheets to use on our third night when we will stay in a bare bone beach cottage In Zacititos. There is an unpleasant odor along one side of the room but observing the many cats and dogs on the premises and the open, screen less windows I attribute the smell to the animals. Lulled by the margaritas and the long day, we fall asleep quickly. Several hours later, I awake to piercing cat meows. Having witnessed cats parading in and out our cottage window earlier, I assume the escalating meowing is the courting ritual between feral cats. The meowing continues and at one point I get up to investigate. The meowing immediately ceases and I return to bed and fall back into an uneasy sleep. As dawn sheds light into our room, I hear a frantic scratching coming from behind a sleeper couch against the wall. I move the couch but no cat scurries from behind and with horror, I grasp that a cat is most likely trapped within the sleeper couch. Tearing off the cushions I unfold the couch and a small flash of dark fur disappears further up into the hollow backing of the couch. I wonder when the last guests stayed in this private cottage, and how long this frightened animal, presumably kitten, has been trapped? I quickly surmise that the putrid smell I noticed last night was most likely from a deceased litter mate, and the frantic meows during the night were the anguished mother cat. I put a dish of water within the couch and leave it unfolded while we go to breakfast. I expect that with the room empty, the mother cat will rescue her kitten and nurse it back to health. Luis is our only contact here and I tell him the situation, trying to impress on him the importance that the couch must be left open. This is not a hotel, there are no maids to speak to; no one else to tell. We pack up and drive into La Paz to attend to our business.

The Crowell Siblings


We visit briefly with Helen in the morning before beginning our drive back to Santa Barbara. The return drive is uneventful and we speed along California highways, arriving back in Santa Barbara in time for dinner in the formal dining room of my fathers retirement home.