Leaving on a Jet Plane – Monday June 16 2008

Leaving on a Jet Plane – Monday June 16

As Art backs out of our driveway, leaving our small downtown Victorian house in Santa Cruz behind, my mind whirls, rechecking hundreds of things on my departure list vital to our families escape to Tokyo, Bali and the Komodo Islands. I slip my hand into the secure zipper of my purse and once again feel three passports and three tickets. Have I remembered to tell Alisha all that she will need to know to run my business smoothly in my absence? A good friend will take care of the house and the pets, and yes, he has the keys and all of the emergency contact information. The static within my mind diminishes with every mile and within 50 minutes Art pulls our 8 year old Acura into the Mountain View train station. We each have just one carry on suitcase, plus the purse on my back that holds all of our tickets, passports cash and credit cards. I have made copies of most of these important documents, but our printer went down a few days ago and in my haste, I flash that have yet to back up our credit card information. A wave of concern sweeps over me should a worst case scenario arise and I make a mental note to do this by hand.

Yesterday, Art gave his friend, a second key to the Acura and he will pick our car up after his work tonight and drive it back to Santa Cruz. Art telephones him to give him the parking space number, we buy tickets for the 7:57 A.M. train, lift our small suitcases aboard and are off, sandwiched between the hoards of Monday morning commuters. I find a seat upstairs, but Art and John stand for the first few stops until we are able to get 4 seats together. I gaze out the window happily, backyards and the cluttered back lots of industrial zones whizzing past me. The mind static is almost gone; I am on the road again. John, our 15 year old son, lanky and sleepy eyed, leans back into the seat with his black sweatshirt hood pulled up hiding much of his handsome and chiseled face. Art’s brow is still furrowed but he softly comments on the contented look on my face, and tells me that someone should package “it.”

At Milbrae, we change from the train to Bart which feeds into the S.F.O. international terminal. We are ahead of schedule and find our place in the long check in line at United Air. John, always hungry, heads for the Airport food court while Art and I stand in line. A few minutes later, getting my attention, John calls out “Marty,” gives me a happy thumbs up and sits across from our snaking line, a tray piled high with food. When he takes his place in line with us, he gives me $3.00 change from the $20.00 bill handed to him earlier. Art grimaces and I hope that in Bali, our dollar will stretch far.

I travel easily and take long lines, security checks and cramped flights in stride but this flight puts even me to a test. Our seating assignments are not together and the plane is completely full but just before departure, we are able to switch seats with a late arriving passenger and sit together. The service is curt, the food bad and the in-flight movies are aired on small overhead screens, not personal seat back consoles. John is getting sick and he coughs and sniffles and complains about the pressure in his ears. Several hours into the flight, after dinner and two movies, we each take a sleeping pill and manage to get some rest.

Tokyo – Tuesday, June 17

Tokyo – Tuesday, June 17, 2008

We arrive at Narita Airport at 1:50 P.M. It’s Tuesday June, 17th and we have lost a day between time zones. We have been here many times before and all is familiar and easy, especially since Art speaks the language and takes care of most everything when we travel within Japan. John and I stand watch over the luggage while Art purchases three Sky-liner train tickets into Tokyo.

Purchasing Train Tickets

Waiting for a Tokyo Train
 Art and John puzzling over the Tokyo train lines. 

Although the skies are grey the temperature is in the mid 70’s. We find seats on the train and watch green fields dotted with red and blue tile roof houses zip passed our window. As we near Tokyo the countryside morphs to urban high-rises, crisscrossed by a spider web of utility wires turning the view outside into a cubist painting alive with the bustle of humanity. An hour later, we arrive at the Uneo Station. We easily wheel our carry-on luggage out of the station and across the street to our hotel. Art reserved this hotel because of it’s easy location and relatively reasonable price. (Two rooms cost us $170.00) Our rooms are extremely tiny and dark, papered with an embossed mustard colored paper permeated with the smell of smoke. Nevertheless, two freshly washed and folded kimono’s are neatly arranged on the bed and the tiny pod of a bathroom is immaculately clean.

Tokyo Highrise
Tokyo Architecture

















Wanting to pack as most into our Tokyo experience as possible, we leave our hotel quickly and ride the metro to the Ginza district. The Ginza is a fashionable district with high end boutiques and couture shops. The architecture is exciting and the bustle of the district excites our senses, but we are hungry and all the restaurants in this district are expensive. We circle back a few blocks back towards the train station and along the way, find a stylish restaurant still serving it’s lunch special for another 15 minutes. It is 4:45 P.M. and we are graciously escorted to a table alongside a wall of glass, just above street level. There are several specials ranging from about $18.00 – $30.00. Art and I order two of the less expensive ones, but John chooses the most expensive. We suffer a few minutes of irritation over John’s choice, but when hot green tea is brought to us in tiny lotus cups and saucers, we begin to relax. The food comes quickly, is beautifully presented, ample and delicious. We are sated, pleased with our choice and return to the Ginza district to stroll and window shop.

Stylish late lunch in Tokyo

Tokyo Immersed – Wednesday June 18th

Tokyo Immersed – Wednesday June 18th, 2008

I wake early and write my blog quietly while Art sleeps. At 15, John could sleep all day, but we manage to wake him and head out, stopping first for a breakfast set at the train station. Art buys us each a metro pass and we take the train to Tokyo Mid Town Mall. The stylish and upscale mall doesn’t open until 11:00 A.M. but we window shop the elegant shops. Art makes a call to Miho, Mizuho’s publicity woman and friend. There is no answer and Art leaves a message. A monumental amoeba-like steel sculpture stands in the garden below the shopping center and we wander over for a closer look. From there we walk the short distance to the National Art Center, a spectacular, voluminous structure of steel and glass.

John taking a contemplative break
Steel and glass, Tokyo
Stylish Cafe

The upper floors of this skeletal steel structure house art exhibits and stylish cafes.

Tokyo garden sculpture and lawn mowing.
John and Marty, Garden Sculpture

Returning to Tokyo Mid Town we are surprised by Miho, who has come looking for us. It is lunch time and she suggests a terrace restaurant overlooking the garden below. The restaurant is upscale and rather expensive, but the view is lovely and the sushi sets and lunch box sets we each order are elegant, mindfully prepared and delicious.

Tokyo rooftop lunch 
Tokyo rooftop lunch
Tokyo rooftop lunch

From lunch we walk to Roppongi Hills and the Mori Museum. A Monumental steel spider sculpture stands in the inner courtyard of this shopping center.

Roppongi Hills Spider Sculpture

For $1500 yen each we access the sky tower and Mori Art Museum. This is the tallest building in Tokyo and the 360 degree roof top view is hazy but impressive. The museum is less impressive and we are disappointed by the Turner Award Retrospective Show.

Hazy rooftop view, Tokyo

At Miho’s suggestion we taxi to the new metro station, modeled to feel like a space station, but we are not impressed. From here we take the metro to Harajuku, taking a coffee break at an ever present Starbuck’s Cafe. The bustling streets of Harajuku are teeming with young people and Gothic and “Bo-Peep” fashions spill forth from the shops lining the streets. I buy Alisha a trendy, butterfly cut out T-shirt and we continue our walk to Kat street in the Shibuya district.

Trendy Shopping Street
Trendy Boutique
Marty with BoPeep girl
Busy Tokyo shopping district

Miho’s feet hurt as do mine so we rest along side the road and watch humanity pass by. Somewhat revived we get lost in Shibuya, with it’s many small boutiques and picturesque side streets, eventually winding our way back towards downtown Tokyo where the statue of the dog serves as a meeting place for locals and travelers alike. The immense square, surrounded by high-rises and flashing billboards feels somewhat like New York’s Time Square. Deciding that we should eat dinner before going our separate ways, Miho suggests an upstairs Izakaya. The decor and menu is traditional Japanese and we share small plates of food. The food is excellent but minimal and we order numerous dishes before we are sated. We part ways, returning by the metro, back to the Ueno district.

Tokyo at night
Marty in Tokyo at night