Category: India 2013

Thursday, January 24th,

The India part of our adventure is over and we expect today to be no more than a day of travel and transition.

Our 7:00 A.M. wake up allows us time to pack leisurely before our final pick up for our flight between Varanasi and New Deli. As expected, the Incentive Destination liaison is waiting when we exit our hotels elevator. We are transported seamlessly to the airport but our departing flight is delayed two hours due to heavy fog. We have nothing significant planned for today and I am grateful that we had a clear day yesterday for our morning boat ride on the Ganges.

Our flight to New Deli eventually departs and when we exit the domestic terminal in Deli, a familiar Incentive Destination face holds a Marty Bobroski sign (always minus the e of my last name.) We offload our minimal luggage into the waiting car and an hour later, are deposited at the Inari hotel on the outskirts of the International airport.

Incentive Destination Tours has booked this hotel so that we can relax and sleep until our 2:00 A.M. wake up call for our flight to the U.A.E. The Inari hotel is in a no-man’s land, between the international airport and edged in by a 4 lane freeway. John and I are not good at relaxing and we are hungry and feel trapped in this plush and corporate hotel. The dining room prices equate to a Maharajas ransom and there are no taxi’s or tut tuts waiting outside the hotel. We ask the concierge how we might get into the city and he coldly tells us that is a very long ways away, suggesting instead, a nearby mall, 8 kilometers away. We have not seen a mainstream mall during our trip and this sounds like a good way to pass the afternoon. He tells us that the hotel shuttle will take us there for 1200 rupees each way. ($50 U.S. dollars for 16 kilometers of freeway travel seems excessive and I inquire about a taxi?) He writes down the taxis phone number but is disinclined to call one for us, so we exit indignantly, march down the palatial steps, cross the expansive circular drive way and pass through the hotels security gate. Joyful to be free of the confines of the hotel, we walk another 300 meters towards the main street in search of a tut tut or taxi.

Our flair of independence is blocked by the rushing freeway and we stand defeated in the dirt behind dented guard rails, quickly realizing that there will be no tut tut passing by. A few taxis wiz past but unless the driver spots us well in advance of the road leading to our hotel, it will be impossible for it to pull over and pick us up. There is a small triangle of dirt between the freeway and the off ramp and we stand in our presumably safe triangle and ponder our plight. Just when we are about to return defeated to our hotel, a sedan veers off of the freeway and pulls along side of us.  A woman in her late 20’s rolls down the window and asks if we need help? We tell her that we are trying to flag down a taxi to take us to the Mall. Her English is perfect and she tells us that it is doubtful that a taxi will stop here and suggests that we return to the hotel and phone for one. I lamely mutter that I do not have a cell phone and she immediately pulls out her cell phone and makes a call to a taxi service on our behalf. Several minutes later she hangs up, shakes her head and tells us that it will be over an hour before a taxi can be sent. She then makes us an unexpected proposition: She is returning from work, lives nearby and must go home first to relieve the nanny of her toddler.  She suggests that it would be a fun outing to go together to the mall and that we ride home with her to pick up her 3 year old daughter, after which she will drive us all to the mall.

I glance over at John; he looks quizzically at me and we slide impulsively into the back seat of her small sedan.  She is 28 years old with a 3 year old daughter and lives 5 minutes away.  We chat nervously as she drives, each sizing the other up. Minutes later, she pulls off of the freeway, drives a mile along a frontage road and we arrive at the gated entrance to her house? She tells us that we must wait outside while she drives inside a secure compound to pick up her daughter. We accept her “terms” and once again, John and I are standing in the dirt along side of a road. John, more observant than myself, is exchanging cautions glances with an armed guard looming sentry above the gate. I am oblivious, hot and unbearably thirsty and plop down on wooden rail just outside the gate. The tower guard is not pleased by our presence and asks us what we are doing there? (Apparently he did not notice our new friend offload us prior to entering his supposedly secure compound?) I rattle off a nervous explanation which is less than satisfactory to him and he calls down to us, telling us that we cannot wait here. I try again to explain, at the same time shuffling crab like 20 feet down from the entrance. Another armed guard appears from behind the gate, also unsettled and confused by our presence, but happily, the second guard determines that we are not a threat and asks if we would like some water to drink while we wait?  I gratefully accept the offer expecting a bottle or glass to be brought to us outside but instead the gate slides open and we are escorted inside the secure compound.  We tentatively enter a several room guard house, sink into stained and saggy couches and are handed two glasses of water. The guards have now switched from guarding to hosting and when we greedily drain our glasses of water, another guard brings us glasses of warm sweet tea, pumped from a thermos. Our eyes dart around the room taking in the framed photos on the walls; pictures of armed special force maneuvers, fighter jets and smiling soldiers with their arms thrown over their buddy’s shoulderss. I am no longer nervous and could sit drinking tea comfortably in this cool room with these handsome young soldiers for some time, excepting that our new female friend will be returning with her daughter soon and wondering where we have gone?

The door to the guard house opens, sunlight sneaks in, and a soldier barks that our friend is waiting outside. John and I rise quickly, offer our thanks, and slide again into the back seat of our new friends car.  I have forgotten her name but will  refer to her as Majaha and her daughter as Sanja. Her 3 year old daughter sits in the front passenger seat, buckled in but without a car seat. John and I sit in back. On our drive to the mall we learn that Majaha is married to a special forces officer and the family lives in the secure army housing compound.  Majaha is a teacher/phycologist and was commuting home when she spotted us along side the freeway. The 3 year old Sanja is full of questions, obviously precocious.

The 8 kilometer drive to the mall is fraught with obstacles.  Until today, we have not experienced an Indian freeway, but it is commute time in Deli and this multi-lane freeway is moving slowly.  We wait in the traffic jam of cars at a freeway toll gate before snaking slowly towards the mall. (I now understand why the hotel charged 1200 rupees for their shuttle.)  Pay parking is the only option and Majaha graciously pays the attendant the 30 rupee fee. We are scanned through a security arch and my purse and John’s back pack are put through an x-ray machine before we are allowed entry into the mall.

Majaha, Sanja and John

Hours ago, John and I wanted lunch and we are now starving. I offer to treat everyone to a meal and Majaha leads us up a central escalator along the upper level to a small cafe. The decor and menu are very Americanized with cushioned bench seats and low tables.  Majaha and Sanja confirm that they are vegetarians and I order a large Greek pizza to share. Everyone has juice smoothies and John orders a additional hamburger and fries.  We chat amicably and cater to the antics of an imaginative and hyperactive 3 year old.

After our late lunch we wander the upper level of the mall and 3 year old Sanja tugs us into a gaming arcade.  In addition to the usual arcade games there is a mechanical bull and I buy a 300 rupee game token card that we can share. We laugh as John is thrown three times from the bull and I am delighted to watch John and Majaha enjoying competitive games of air hockey and bowling. I am not much for games and am content to keep an eye on Sanja, who is happy to sit at the controls of driving and shooting games, simply watching the bright lights flash. I observe a cultural difference in mothering. It may be that I am the presumed babysitter, but when Sanja wanders off, Majaha seems unconcerned of her daughters whereabouts. Is it that we are in a secure mall or that Indian children are presumed safe from abductions? This may be a healthy outlook because Alisha and I panic instantly if either Molly or Sterling disappear from our site for more than a few seconds. After an hour, I can tell that even John is bored by the games but Snaja begs and whines to stay longer and gets her way. Eventually, Majaha carries her daughter, kicking and screaming from the arcade and I reflect on my daughters competent way of communicating boundaries with her children with minimal tears and tantrums.

Majaha receives a call on her cell phone and her demeanor changes. I imagine it to be her husband; perhaps questioning her whereabouts and wondering why in the hell she picked up two strange American tourists? It is dark when we exit the mall and return home in rush hour freeway traffic. Majaha advises us that she will not be able to take us to our hotel but that she will pull onto the shoulder of the freeway to let us out and that we should climb over the guard rail and walk back to our hotel. Horns honk, brakes squeal and John and I slip from the back seat of her car and quickly climb over the dented guard rail to presumed safety, practically sprinting up the dark drive way towards the lights of our hotel.

We have a 2:00 A.M. wake up call and our plans are to go to bed immediately but when we enter the hotel we see a wedding celebration underway on the garden lawn. The restaurant offers an unobstructed view of the party below and we allow ourselves to be ushered to a window table in the dining room, order a large beer to share, and recount the unusual events of our day.

I am not in Kansas any more and this is the great joy of traveling; the unexpected turn of the road when two cultures interconnect.

The alarm sounds at 5:30 A.M.  We dress quickly and head downstairs to wolf down the buffet breakfast before meeting our guide and driver at 6:30 A.M.  The streets are already bustling with traffic and in 20 minutes we arrive at the end of the trafficked street above the main ghat. Most of the shops are still shuttered but a chai stall ladles up hot milky tea and a few food carts are operational.

Morning Chai Cafe

The women with babes in arms are out early to catch the tourist rupees and many approach me imploringly. In the grey light of the morning, I observe that the babies, although dirty, look healthy and fat and I give my pocketed 10 rupee notes to the amputees and an old women scavenging along the street. We descend the long flight of stairs to the river ghats and watch morning rituals, both mundane and holy, in the grey light of dawn. It is apparent that many men spent the night sleeping here and we watch them sitting in intimate groups, huddled over small fires and holding cups of presumably hot tea. Pilgrims in saffron robes wait to board large wooden boats and we board our smaller vessel. This morning’s boat ride on the Ganges is included in our tour and we look forward to seeing the sun rise and watching the morning rituals along the river.

Boys preparing their boats for the tourists

Men gathered in the early morning on the ghats

A boy of about 12 rows our boat and our guide tells us that he paddles tourists each morning to earn extra money before going to school. We glide silently down river, keeping close to the bank where both men and women stand waist deep and wash themselves in the river.

Dawn on the Ganges River

Boat boy rowing

The men wear a diverse array of undergarments and are mostly shirtless but the women wade in fully dressed wearing their sarees. Some people stand with their hands folded in prayer or meditation and others energetically wash laundry. Mornings on the Ganges can be foggy and we are fortunate to be here on a clear morning.

Men bathing in the Ganges River

Women bathing in the Ganges River

Morning activity along the Ganges Ghats

Other boats with tourists and pilgrims are on the river and we see them silhouetted dark against the rosy glow of dawn. John dips his hand in the water and reports that it is surprisingly warm, but neither of us would relish a morning bath in the tepid and murky river. Our boat-boy paddles us downriver for 30 minutes and 30 minutes in return to the moorings at the central ghat. The boat owner looms dockside and our guide pays him an undisclosed amount and John tips the young boy 100 rupees for his hard rowing.

Morning activity along the Gange River ghats

Morning Prayer

Morning meditations

Our guide leads us along the shadowed narrow lanes of the old city in the direction of the Golden, Vishwanath Temple.

School Children

Narrow lane in the old city

We stop first at a tiny masala chai shop and our guide tells us that we need to leave all of our belongings here before passing through a high security check point and proceeding to the temple. As we sit on a narrow bench along the wall of the small tea shop a man from down the alley appears carrying a tray of steaming tea cups. We have not yet had our morning coffee and we gratefully sip the hot sweet and milky tea from the tiny cups and wish for more. John accepts the offer of a refill but I stubbornly decline, not wanting to feel further indebted when a sales pitch for the masala chai begins. I am uncomfortable leaving our valuables with the merchant but pass them over and follow our guide down an alley filled with soldiers. Perhaps it is just the presence of the armed soldiers but I can palpably feel tension when we pass through a metal detector spanning the width of the narrow lane. We snake our way towards the temple entrance but only Hindus are allowed entry and John and I take turns standing on a ledge to look above the cloistered temple walls to view the golden dome and spires weighing 800kg. They glint magically in the morning sunlight and and I wish that we could enter the temple grounds.

Narrow lanes in the old city

Unknown temple in alley way

When we return to the masala chai shop to reclaim our valuables, my suspicions are realized and we are treated to a full sales pitch for their special blend of chai along with a pitch for strands of beads that will lower our cholesterol, blood pressure and the cash in our wallets. Miraculously, and to our guide and the merchant’s disappointment, we do not succumb to the many, price inflated temptations.

It has already been a full day and it is not even 10:00 A.M. We drive back to our hotel, have the chance to shower and prepare for our afternoon visit to Sarnath, where Buddha delivered his first sermon in the Deer Park. The drive is less than 45 minutes and we begin by visiting the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar Temple, built in 1931 by the Mahabodhi Society.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihar Temple

Mulagandha Kuti Vihar Temple Bell

For me, this realatively modern temple is a highlight, painted with richly colored frescos by the Japanese artist, Kosetsu Nosu, depicting Buddhist art and literature. I am not well versed in the history of Buddhism but I am mesmerized by the fluid and graphic murals covering the walls. The illustrative, 19th century murals bring the stories alive and I come to understand much of the lore and can relate the means of presentation to the illustrated bible stories that I was taught as a child.

Fresco by Japanese artist, Kosetsu Nosu

Fresco by Japanese artist, Kosetsu Nosu

Buddhist Temple bookshop

An immense and stunning golden Buddha radiates compassion from the altar and a monk in saffron and orange robes sits reading, behind the offering box.  John is fascinated by it all and asks many questions of the monks selling literature at the back of the temple.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihar Temple Buddha

The ruins of the 9th and 10th century, Chowkandi and Dhamek Stupas are in close proximity to the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar Temple and after a brief historical overview, our guide sets us free to explore the significant site. John and I walk the maze of interlocking pathways and circumnavigate the immense stone Stupa but the red brick and stone ruins are overly restored and we do not feel any sense of history or place here.

Sarnath Deer Park

Stupa detail with gold foil offerings

Sarnath Stupa

The site is gated but we encounter a few woman and children who have slipped into the confines hoping to sell their wilted carrots in exchange for rupees. A boy of 6 or 7 approaches us and John gives him candy and hotel shampoo and soap packets from our 5 star hotels. His mother or grandmother appears momentarily and John gives her our remaining soaps and shampoos.  A 6 or 7 week old puppy staggers wearily at the base of a low wall and I search in my purse for any sort of nutrient and come up empty. We know the puppy will not survive the day.

John with boy selling carrots

A gift of hotel soap and shampoo

By mid afternoon our tour of Sarnath is complete and our guide and driver wish to be done with us and to return us to our hotel. Once again, I disrupt their plan and ask to be dropped off elsewhere.  John and I are salivating over the prospect of an evening on our own and with free reign, we set out to explore the souks and markets in Varanasi.

Weighing cooking oil

Brick layers

Boys hauling goods

It is magical to be set free and we feel seasoned enough to explore alone. Our trip is coming to an end and both John and I have a shopping agenda as we walk along the shopping streets and souks with determination.  We find ourselves in a Muslim shopping souk and peruse tiny shops filled with brass deities, spices and teas and jewelry.

A side street

Muslim women shopping

So as not to get lost, we set our internal G.P.S. on the main street and wander without hesitation or time constraints along fascinating alleyways. We bargain and buy 2 dozen bindis; (an Indian forehead decoration.)  John barters for brass Hindu deities and strands of beads that may or may not lower his cholesterol and blood pressure. We laugh when we encounter cows along the narrow lanes and I search for Indian Kurtas, a thigh length tunic and a possible souvenir for myself and for gifts. John and I have patience with each other’s quests and we trace and retrace our paths examining the splendid goods in the various shops.

Mannequins

Cows in the souk

Sarees for sale

Eventually we tire of shopping and wind our way out of the maze of shops, onto the main street and back to the Dolphin Café.  It is very late and the ghats below the Dolphin Café are deserted except for a few beggars and holy men. I feel anxious as we walk the deserted steps towards the café, but also exhilarated (and out of breath) as we climb the many flights up to the rooftop café. Tonight’s dinner is better than last nights and we are again alone at this roof top café, overlooking the blackness of the Ganges River and the ghats below.

After our late night dinner we have little choice but to walk back via the lonely ghats. We walk briskly and watchfully and arrive safely on the main street, now thinning out with traffic. There are still plenty of late night tut-tuts on the main street and we quickly choose one and climb aboard. As our driver maneuvers his vehicle into the chaotic late night traffic, I imagine that he feels triumphant to have scored a tourist fare, 20 minutes away. John and I huddle together in the back for warmth, still laughing and joyful from another adventurous day. Moments later our driver rear ends the car in front and the impacted driver jumps out and a serious argument unfolds. John and I stand by hesitantly as the argument escalates but soon realize that we have no part in this incident and another tut-tut driver swoops us into the confines of his vehicle and we are swept back to the safety of our tourist hotel.

Monday, January 21- Erotic Khajuraho to Sacred Varanasi

Lakshmana Temple

Just when I think that the best part of our trip is behind us, temples worthy of an Indiana Jones adventure await, but instead of the Temples of Doom, we explore the “Temples of Erotica.”  We have all day in Khajuraho to visit the many temple sites and are picked up at 8:30 A.M. by our familiar driver and a new guide. Unfortunately, I do not remember the guides name but both John and I like him immediately. He is middle age, rounded, soft spoken and seemingly wise. He wears an ecru tunic and sarouel pants and imparts the appropriate historical facts to us, at the same time, allowing us the freedom to make our own assessments about the artistic and erotic aspects of the temples.

Equine Erotica

Erotic Embrace

Vishnu’s Boar Shrine stands impressively just inside the entrance to this World Heritage Site.

Carved detail on leg of Vishnu’s Boar

View of Vishnu’s Boar’s Legs

Detail on leg of Vishnu’s Boar

Detail on leg of Vishnu’s Boar

There are many temples dating between 900 A.D. to 1050 A.D. in the Khajuraho temple complex and our tour begins at the Lakshmana, the temple adjacent to the Matangesvara Hindu temple that John and I visited yesterday afternoon. This temple is the largest and most impressive with soaring sikharas (temple rooftops) an ornate silhouette of elaborately carved conicals. 

Chitragupta Temple

Devi_Jagadamba_Temple

Detailed, bas relief friezes embellish the exteriors of all and our guide discusses the more famous, which in many cases are the most erotic. Voluptous women and virle men take pleasure in each other, contorting in various Kama Sutra positions along the exterior walls. Men are intimate with their horses and rows of elephants and monkeys cavort playfully. Many of the carvings are in remarkably pristine condition and the thousands of carvings, depicting the daily activities of the people, help us to visualize their lives. A beautiful woman holds a mirror and looks back over her shoulder, servant girls attend to chores and lovers repeatedly embrace in ecstasy. 

Elephants watching

Orgey

Kama Sutra

Camel and Horse Parade

Musicians

Musicians

Our guide supplies historical information  as we examine the carvings on the first temple but excuses himself and waits on a bench in the shade while John and I move on to temple number 2 and 3. John is thrilled by it all and I watch with delight as he stands on tip toe to take photos of the friezes. He circles the buildings slowly, carefully examining and photographing the friezes that are within his reach and sight. 

John taking photos

John taking photos

I watch John stand on tip toes and lie prone below carved ceilings to take shots looking up and he impishly asks if I think they would mind if he climbed up the wall? (The three dimensional friezes provide tempting grips for any climber to scale to the top of the temple.) 

Looking Up

Looking Up

Interior temple carvings

Our guide periodically checks in with us but we are thoroughly engrossed and contented to move methodically from one site to another. Eventually our guide suggests that we leave, telling us that the temple structures in the distance are very similar and not as well preserved as the ones we have already visited, but John is determined to see each structure and we have been told that we have all day. We explore the interior of the temples, the carvings inside are polished from years of touch and we circumambulate the interiors reverently.

Interior temple carvings

Interior temple carvings

Interior temple shrine

At 12:30, we descend the steps of the final temple site and see our guide anxiously looking for us. There has been a change in our flight schedule to Varanasi and we must leave immediately.  We are disappointed since we are looking forward to having some shopping time in the village square and possibly returning to bronze shop in the old village.  Instead we are hurried through the square past the street vendors, to our waiting car and whisked to the nearby airport.

Varanasi traffic

Khajuraho street vendor

Regretfully, our plane is delayed an hour but we land in Varanasi late afternoon, are met by a new guide and driver and delivered seamlessly to the Taj Gateway Hotel Ganges. This blog is not intended to be a review of our various guides, but the personality and knowledge of each guide makes a huge difference in the experience.  Our Varanasi guide is disappointing in that he cannot bear a moment of silence and prattles on about inconsequential trivia.  He repeatedly tells us that if we wish him to be quiet to tell him so but this is not as easy as it might sound.  In an effort to calm him, we are unnaturally quiet and nonresponsive to his jokes and running commentary but this seems to inspire him to talk more in an effort to fill the silences.

Varanasi flower seller

Varanasi beggars and holy men

The Varanasi Ghats are tonight’s destination and our driver drops us some distance from the river Ganges where he can park and wait for our return.  We walk with our guide through the teeming streets in the direction of the river. The divided city street is wide, wild and crazy with the usual mixture of traffic; cars, motorcycles, tut-tuts, trikes, cows and pedestrians. Shops brimming with colorful goods line either side of the street and the no man’s land between shops and traffic is an obstacle course of pedestrians, children, beggars and carts. The light is fading making the illuminated shops all the more enticing and we wish to explore but know that we are on a schedule and that the Ganges is our destination. Shop vendors beacon us into their stalls and mothers with outstretched palms thrust babies towards us. I maneuver through the chaos, periodically offering coins to the mothers, the disabled, the holy men but the demands are endless.   

Varanasi beggars and holy men

We come to the top of a wide and long stairway, one of the Ganges many ghats. A jumble of wooden boats are moored at the water’s edge below and a vertically descending row of a dozen holy men sit cross legged with bowls in front of them. These bearded men, faces etched by time, wisdom and hardship wear soiled tunics of saffron, yellow and white and for a coin or two, allow me to take their photographs. 

Varanasi Ghat

Varanasi Ghat

I am not clear on tonight’s plan and our guide suggests that we hire a boat to row us down river to a funeral ghat where we will be able to see the cremation fires at night. The area above the “log jam” of waiting boats is being prepared for tonight’s prayer festivities and I am torn between wanting to sit above the river and look down, or be in a boat, on the river looking up. Our guide tells us that the price for the boat is not included in our tour but that it costs only 700 rupees ($10) and that we can pay him and he will arrange it. It is not the money that is of concern but I have read in the Lonely Planet guide book that one can hire a boat for 100-200 rupees and I want to be sure that the boatman, not our guide, gets the 700 rupees.  

Our boatman

Funeral ghats at dusk

It is near dark when the three of us climb aboard the small wooden boat. Other boats are filling with tourists and young boys with baskets of floating candle votives, walk nimbly between the boats selling their prayer votives. 

Boy selling floating flower votives

Funeral ghat

John suggests we buy a dozen but regretfully, I have not quite grasped the spirit of the river and buy only 5. We paddle silently down river towards the cremation ghat only slightly aware of the many other boats gliding along side of us, silhouetted reflections in the dark water.  We stop 100 meters from shore and watch as shrouded bodies adorned with orange flowers are submerged in the river, anointed by the holy water and placed onto waiting funeral pyres. 5 or 6 fires alternately blaze and smolder attended by priest, family and friends. This is a sacred setting and we are awed by the beauty and the holiness. 

Funeral ghat

Unfortunately, our guide continues his irritating commentary, even when John begins to light the votives and places them one by one in the river. John lights three to honor his friends who have died and we light the remaining two for mom and for Mizuho. Our emotions swell and I begin to cry and know that when we are back at the dock, we will buy more to set afloat to honor the memory of other departed friends and family. Our votives drift with the current, joining others and glinting bright against the midnight black of the river.

Lighting a prayer votive

Setting a prayer votive afloat

Our boat paddler, rows us back to the main ghat where a prayer ceremony is about to begin. We remain seated in our boat and watch the ceremony unfold. Other barefoot boys are peddling baskets of the flower votives and I purchase 12.  There are 4 or 5 ceremonial stages along the edge of the ghat and priests begin to gesture and chant. Festive stage lights blaze, music swells and the chanting reverberates in the night. 

Holy celebration

Holy celebration

Holy celebration

Since my tears, our guide has remained blessedly quiet but he now mindfully suggests that this would be a good time to set the other prayer votives adrift.  A breeze comes up and John struggles to light them and we prayerfully set one after another into the river in rememberance of cherished departed friends and family. 

Pilgrims

Devotees

Devotees

The chanting continues for nearly an hour but when the ceremonies end, we disembark our small boat and walk up the many stairs of the ghat amidst the throngs of humanity, on the Ganges River.    

Holy man

Holy man

Varanasi Ghat Celebration

Our evening tour is at an end and our guide expects to return us to the safety of our hotel but John and I wish to have dinner in the area, at the Dolphin Café, overlooking the river and recommended in the Lonely Planet guide book. Our guide is unsettled by our request and asks how we plan to get back to our hotel? He walks with us to the Dolphin Café and guest house and explains to the concierge that we will need a tut-tut after our dinner there. He warns us to be careful and writes both the name of our hotel and his cell number on a piece of paper and departs. 

Holy cow, shopping the bazaar

Evening bazaar

Evening cafe

John and I hurry back to the bustle of the main shopping street and walk down several narrow souks, ogling the colorful embroidered dresses, pashima scarves, spices and brass figurines. John admires the embroidered mens tunics and pants and we step up into a small shop and with the speed of a magician, the merchant quickly has John dressed in a creamy ensemble. After we have paid the modest amount for the outfit, the merchant suggests a “hat” and leaves us alone and in charge of his shop, returning 10 minutes later with an assortment of colorful  turbans fit for a Maharaja. John chooses one and we laugh over the logistics of transporting it back home in an un-crumpled state; perhaps John will need to wear it? 

Maharaja John

Merchant with John

It must be nearly 9:00 P.M. when hunger gets the better of us and we return to the ghat, now dark and nearly deserted and climb the many flights of stairs up to the rooftop Dolphin Café. We pass a few parties, descending after finishing their dinner and one couple assures us that it it’s worth the climb. We sit outside, the only diners at this late hour, overlooking the river and the main ghat, that just two hours ago was brilliantly illuminated and crowded with humanity.  We share a beer and wait for our tandori chicken, rice and sweet cheese stuffed potatoes to arrive.  All is delicious and the end to a near perfect day.

The concierge phones for a tut-tut driver who appears shortly in the downstairs Dolphin Guest House lobby and we follow our driver along a dark and narrow alley to the main street where his tut-tut waits. He ties down the canvas sides to the tut-tut, cocooning us against the cold wind and John and I huddle together in the back seat in an effort to keep warm. 20 minutes later he drops us outside the gates of our hotel; 5 star hotel security being rigid throughout India. John and I nod to the night guardsmen and pass into the grounds of the hotel to find a wedding party in full swing on the expansive back lawn and patio. Hundreds of wedding guests jam the hotels circular driveway and a 6 piece band blasts trumpets in anticipation of the groom’s arrival. Two dozen dancers twirl and sway wearing meter high, lighted and rotating headdresses, adding to the festivities and illuminating the procession. We observe with amusement, that each lighted head piece is connected by a long cable to a battery powered cart that rolls along in unison with the tethered dancers.  We are not invited guests and John and I stay a respectful distance back, straining to catch a glimpse of the bride or groom, above the heads of the gathered crowd. 

Lighted wedding celebration parade

We enter the hotel, surmising that we will be able to see more of the wedding festivities through the windows of our hotel’s restaurant. Other hotel guests have the same idea and we sit at one of the few remaining window tables adjacent to the back garden patio. We order yet another beer and sit for nearly an hour watching the marriage celebration of an apparently important and wealthy couple. The guest attire is impeccable and formal. A mixed group of elegantly dressed teens sit together at a patio table and the girls eye John through the glass. Just as in America, the young people sip their drinks, awkwardly adjust their uncomfortable clothing and fiddle with their cell phones.  We do not see the bride but eventually an older groom arrives on horseback with a boy of about 5 seated in front of him. We have seen other wedding processions on the streets and all the grooms ride double with a young boy in front. From what I have learned, this is a symbol of luck and the couples desire to bear children. We are told that the festivities will continue for several more hours but John and I have had our fill of this “ball” and before the clock strikes 12:00 P.M. and we turn into pumpkins, we head upstairs to our room to sleep.   

January 20th. Agra to Jhansi Junction to Khahuraho

This is our earliest morning so far and I wake to John’s phone at 5:45 A.M. We have 8:15 A.M. train tickets to Jhansi, at which point we will be met by a driver to travel 4-5 hours further to Khahuraho. The Incentive Destinations tour company continues to choreograph our trip beautifully, seeing to every detail with a representative to help us each step of the way. It’s only a 10 minute drive to the train station where we are assisted with boarding the correct, and on time train to Jhansi. It is chaotic boarding the train; Indian travelers, a German tour group, John and I, are all trying to stow luggage and find assigned seats. We have boarded at the front of the car and our seats are in the back so we must work our way to the rear of the car. It seems that everyone who boarded from the back has assigned seats at the front so we jostle, squeeze and scoot our luggage along the floor as space opens up. The train departs before we find our seats but when we do, John hoists our bags onto the overhead rack and we slide into our pre-assigned places.

Train to Jhansi Junction

We have an unobstructed window view but the glass is scratched and filmy with grime. A well to do Indian family sits opposite us; three women dressed in brightly colored saris with gold borders and wearing filigree gold rings on many of their fingers. The father or perhaps the grandfather sits in the row behind and the two children scuttle back and forth between the rows. There is little of interest out the filmy window, allowing me time to type. Time passes quickly and we arrive in Jhansi at 10:45 A.M.

As expected, when we disembark onto the crowded and chaotic platform, a young man stands holding a small white sign with my name printed on it. We follow him obediently from the platform to a waiting white mini-van and within minutes we are driving the two lane road to Khahuraho.

Colorful Good’s Truck

Sunday Bathing

Holy Cow!

After leaving the chaos of the city our drive is mostly through pristine farm land. We pass by small rural villages, the buildings made of brick, many with roofs topped with tidy rows of mud shingles. Patties of cow dung are neatly piled in the sun to dry, as fuel for the fire. The hard packed dirt lanes between the houses are swept clean and free of trash.

Rooftop Children

Immaculate Village

Clothes out to dry

Our new driver is not only road competent but shyly contributes appropriate commentary and is insightful, stopping at places of picturesque interest so that I can take photos. At one such stop a handful of children appear instantly at my open car window and I ask our driver if we may give the children pencils? John pulls out a mixed handful of pens and pencils and our driver takes them from us to distribute evenly among the children. Within seconds the number of children have doubled and then tripled and John grabs another handful of pencils from his pack but even so, many of the children leave empty handed and disappointed. Cows lounge chewing their cuds, scrawny dogs sleep in the sunshine and families wash themselves atop the cement platforms of village wells. Mothers and teens pump water, fill buckets and lather naked children for their Sunday (?) baths.

Village Children

Village Children

Village Boy

We drive over a bridge spanning a wide and very blue river that supplies the drinking water for the region. The countryside is beautiful with fields of bright yellow mustard, chick peas and sugar cane. Clusters of date palms dot the landscape and we learn that Kaju is the word for date. The countryside is lush with banyan, teak and neem trees. Our driver tells us that chewing the leaves of the neem tree prevents malaria and that the twigs are used to clean the teeth. We pass many brick factories, their presence marked by scarred landscape and tall chimneys where the bricks are fired and piles and piles of bricks.

Brick Factory

We arrive at the Hotel Chandela just before 4:00 P.M. Our Incentive Destination contact is there to meet us and after the check-in formalities, asks if we would like to attend a sound and light or dance performance tonight?  I glance over at John and he looks pained at the very thought. We decline and our contact suggests a massage instead?  John and I are both road weary and a massage sounds wonderful and I inquire about the price. He tells us that massage prices range between 1500 – 3000 rupees.($30-$60) By American standards the price is quite reasonable and we are tempted so I take his card and tell him that we may call him. We also tell him that we are excited to be in Khahuraho and intend to go into town on our own this afternoon. Our Incentive Destination contact tells us that he cannot prevent “that” but suggests instead that we relax at the pool and rest. I am learning that there is not only a great cultural divide, but also a language and body language misinterpretation. I do not want to be coddled and kept in a gilded cage and some of our guides try to do so. Our contact leaves and John and I are shown to our room where we find the hotels “spa menu.” A 60 minute, full body oil massage is just 1000 rupees ($20.)

John and I regroup quickly and head out to explore the town. As we exit past the front desk, I schedule two massages for 6:30 P.M.

Khajuraho Temple Complex

Khajuraho Minarets

Motorcycle Friends

We are prey to the many tut-tut and trike drivers parked outside the gates of our hotel. 4 or 5 immediately descend on us and to be fair, we choose the first one, who peddles an open air trike.  John accepts the “peddlers” initial suggested price of 150 rupees for the ride to the temples, waiting for us, and for the return ride to our hotel. (This equates to just over $3.) Two young men on a red motorcycle ride slowly along side of us and strike up a conversation. The younger man is 24 and I surmise the other man is near 30. The older man’s English is good and he tells us that he is studying to become a guide, but I suspect he is studying to become a hustler. Nevertheless, I like them both and imagine that it will be nearly impossible to ditch them.  They become our shadow for the remainder of the afternoon, offering to show us the old village where they live and ultimately directing us to the left side of the gated Khahuraho temple complex where we are able to see over the walls and take photos of the temples in the golden afternoon sunlight. Our “shadows” hang back as John and I skirt the outside perimeter of the temples. John hoists me up onto a wall so that I can take an unobstructed photo but a guard inside soon takes notice and waves a disapproving hand my direction and I jump down.

Steps to Hindu Temple adjacent to Khajuraho Complex

Khajuraho Spires from Hindu Temple

Immediately to the left of the gated Khajuraho complex is an active 900 A.D. Hindu temple. The active temples have flags flying and after a group of devotees descend, John removes his shoes and mounts the rough-hewn polished stone steps. I follow and we enter the cave cool confines of the temple. A temple priest motions to us and asks our names, the names of John’s sister, my children, grandchildren and husband.  He presses flowers into the palms of our hands and motions for us to lean into a pillar. With our foreheads pressed against the immense “Shiva’s pillar,” the priest begins to chant out our list of names; praying for “good job” and “good marriage” and “good children.” The interior of the temple is tiny, cave cool and dark and a second priest sits cross legged just inside the entrance. As we circumambulate to leave he motions towards the donation tray and I deposit 100 rupees. He anoints each of our foreheads with a smudge of red and we exit into bright afternoon sunlight. We are followed by our “chanting-priest” who is not satisfied by our temple offering and asks for 200 rupees for himself. I tell him that is too much and he asks hopefully for 100 rupees which I hand over to him so that we may leave and that the prayers may be manifested.

Hindu Temple Devotees

Hindu Temple Priest

The two young men welcome us back into their clutches, leading us the short distance back to the town via the ghats of a small man-made lake, just the other side of the Hindu temple. A few lethargic men sit on the stone steps overlooking the lake and garbage stagnates along the edges of the water.

We ascend to street level and find the expected tourist shops and street vendors in the small town square. After having experienced the chaos of the markets in much larger cities, the relaxed ambiance of this town is a welcome change. We enjoy a few minutes perusing carts piled with brass trinkets and jewelry but we have promised to visit the shop where the younger man works. We follow him across the square to a store packed full of pashmina scarves and T-shirts. We manage to make a graceful and hasty exit but the second man reminds of our promise to visit his village and we must be back at the hotel at 6:15 for our scheduled massages. Our trike peddler is waiting and John and I climb aboard and he rides us back via the narrow streets of an adjoining village. I regret that we have the massage scheduled because this tiny village feels magical in the fading light and I would like to take my time. I take a few jiggley photos as we jostle along the uneven lanes stopping abruptly at the door to a bronze curio shop.

The shop is small and the shelves are packed with bronze figurines and hardware. A long and dusty glass cabinets is a jumble of more bronze treasures.  As a jeweler and sculptor, I feel confident that I can tell a good piece from a tourist piece but I am overwhelmed and confused and pressed for time. I know that we will not be able to come back tomorrow and the owner of the shop pulls piece after piece out of the case, placing them on-top of the glass for my examination.  I pull a few things aside; a small crude peacock figurine that might have been an ornamental tip to a pipe, several bronze pieces of hardware and a larger elephant figurine. I ask how much?  Naturally, the price is too much and John, my throw caution to the wind son, tells me several time to “think about it Mom.”  I do not heed his advice and make a counter offer of about half of the original price but I do not have the full $150 on me. Not surprisingly, after much choreographed resistance, my second offer is accepted and we hurriedly leave with our shadows following us and plans to stop at an ATM on the way to back to our hotel.

John stands back with the two men as I enter the ATM.  The machine regurgitates money and I pay the older man the balance due and our trike peddler returns us to the gated confines of our hotel.

Our massage will be 15 minutes later than scheduled which gives us both time to shower and prepare. We cross the courtyard adjoining the pool and enter the respective, male and female massage rooms. Although I have enjoyed a number of massages in my lifetime, most have been in foreign lands and I don’t imagine that I will every feel completely at ease, undressed and kneaded by unfamiliar hands. There is no soft music or incense wafting in the air but my masseuse, a gracious woman about my age wearing a simple sari, instructs me to undress and lie down and she competently removes much of the past two weeks of travel stress. John tells me that his masseuse was a man and that he was given a pair of paper undergarments to wear during his massage.

It is 8:30 P.M. when John and I arrive at the hotel’s restaurant for dinner. There are no tables available so we play two games of pool in the lounge while waiting for a table to vacate.  We are the only ones in the lounge area and the bored bartender is amused by our inexperienced game and offers up suggested plays to both of us. Today has been especially wonderful and I count my blessings that I am able to share this adventure so easily with John.

Sunday, January 19th – Jaipur to Agra

When I check out of the Mandawa Haveli Hotel, I ask if all of the bathrooms are as palatial as ours and I am politely informed that John and I were upgraded to a suite. Although the towels were not as plush as at the Trident Hotels, the vintage, two room suite gave us a sense of place and the sunken, scalloped shaped bathtub with ionic columns was fit for a Maharaja.  I settle our bill which is a reasonable 4500 Rupees for two dinners, internet and laundry.

Agra Traffic

Where is the bicycle?

Our driver arrives promptly at 8:30 A.M. for our 5 hour drive to Agra. Our departure is delayed 20 minutes as I search the street for an ATM to replenish our rupees.  Last night, I tried to coax two different ATM’s to spit out the requested money but either they were out of cash or didn’t like my card because I left empty handed. The first one that I try this morning is out of cash but happily the one across the street has a full belly and gives me 10,000 rupees; the equivalent of approximately $200.

The drive to Agra is along a new highway and there is a regard for traffic laws and free of livestock hazards. We stop once briefly for lime sodas and an overpriced plate of finger chips (French fries,) at a tourist hotel and restaurant along the highway. At 2:00 P.M. we reach the outskirts of Agra, maneuvering through congested streets with the usual mixture of livestock, humanity, cars, trucks, motorcycle and tut-tuts. There is a cacophony of horns and sputtering vehicles mixed with our driver’s mutterings and cell phone calls.

Bicycle Courrier

Bicycle Courrier

We arrive at the gated confines of another Trident hotel, a garden oasis in the heart of Agra and are welcomed with the expected fruity drinks. After the recording of our passports and the exchange of vouchers we are escorted to our room overlooking the pool and identical in its arrangement to our room at the Udaipur Trident hotel.  With an hour before our tour to Agra, John and I pass the time in the hotels lounge, playing rummy and sharing a plate of samosas.

Entrance gate to the Taj Mahal

Our guide, “Sunny” arrives exactly at 3:30 and we are off to visit the Taj Mahal. He is young, self confident to a fault and wears trendy jeans and oversized sunglasses. For the first 10 minutes, John and I are minimally charmed by his cool façade and practiced lines but by the time we arrive at the Taj Mahal, his mannerisms are already tiresome. There is no doubt that he is well informed but his affected pauses between recitations of facts, as if waiting for an applause, make me wish for a fast forward button. The monumental, red sandstone wall and entry gate, is impressive in itself, keeping the majestic elegance of the Taj Mahal a secret until one passes through. Sunny repeatedly talks metaphorically, of the bride, lifting her veil for her lover and waits for our approving nods and awed inhalations after each recitation of fact.

The Taj Mahal

John making friends

When we step through the gate I am genuinely delighted and impressed by the pristine beauty and symmetry of the “most beautiful building in the world.”  The late afternoon light is golden and the sky a flawless blue but John’s and my inhalations of awe do not satisfy Sunny and he continually prods us for superlatives. The fountains are dry which lessens the visual impact to some degree, but I have a good imagination and the long iconic reflecting pool is painted a aqua blue to maintain the illusion of water. There are throngs of tourists and it is impossible to take a photo without other tourists in view but we do the best we can and stroll in the direction of the palace.

Taj Mahal tourists

Putting on protective slippers

View of the Gate from the Taj Mahal

A long line snakes around one side of the Taj Mahal and Sunny announces (drum rolls please,) that we have preferred tickets and do not have to wait in line. With a flourish, he passes us the required gauzy white shoe slippers so that the shoes of millions will not mar the marble floors and we are soon funneled into a circumambulation of the tombs within the small and dimly lit interior of the memorial palace. Photos are not allowed inside but we may take photos of the exterior and Sunny focuses obsessively on the multi color marble inlay and bas relieve carving along the exterior walls.  Admittedly, all is exquisite and the Taj Mahal is a spectacular architectural wonder, entitled to its World Wonder classification, but our guide is dulling its magic.

Detail of the Marble Carvings – Taj Mahal

Facade of the Taj Mahal

I soon surmise that this hype is to wet our appetites for a tour of a marble inlay workshop/factory following our visit here.   I tell Sunny that we do not want to go to this “workshop,” that I have been to similar workshops in Italy and in Egypt and understand the process and am simply not interested in visiting another.  John is in agreement but perhaps we should have conceded since John has never visited one of these marble inlay workshops. Sunny is disappointed but suggests plan B, a visit to Kohinoor Jewellers, an embroidery and jewelry gallery and museum.  Emphasizing the museum factor, he tells us of elaborate works of gold and gemstones and a world class tapestry gallery. Not ready to return to our hotel, we agree to this alternate plan and soon pull into the securely gated parking area in front of a large dark grey two story building.

Taj Mahal at dusk

We are escorted up a few stairs and enter a formal foyer where we are greeted by a slight and impeccably dressed man of near 70.  Along the walls of the hallway leading away from the foyer are a number of 4’ x 6’ stunning embroidered bird tapestries, illuminated and enclosed behind glass. Peacocks and parrots and intricate floral bouquets shimmer vibrantly and we study the detailed and three dimensional silk embroidery pieces with respect and awe. Our polished and gracious host explains the process and tells us that each of the works was created by hand and the master artist, Padmashri Shams, passed away in 1999.  When he asks if we would like to visit the gallery of masterpieces, John and I enthusiastically agree and we enter a vast darkened theater.  The double doors close behind us and as our eyes adjust to the dim light within, I can make out, a half dozen or more, immense frames along the walls. There are no seats within this theatre and our host carries a remote control. With the push of a button, soft music surrounds us and with another point and click the shade on one of the frames begins to rise. Peacocks even more stunning than the ones in the hallways come to life behind the glass. As a well rehearsed performer, with perfected voice control and command of his audience, our host talks about the artist, explains the process and wets our appetite for the 6 more tabloids to come.  John is mesmerized and I envy his ability to simply enjoy this moment.  I too am amazed by the work but even more so by the presentation and I have no doubt that after an hour of this man’s attention, and the expenses involved to orchestrate this performance art, that we will be funneled into a gift shop and heavily pressured to buy. There are 7 tabloids and our host unveils each one in due time and each unveiling is more impressive than the last.  The 4th art piece is a floor to ceiling embroidered tapestry of Jesus with a golden lamb carried upon his shoulders and a flock of three dimensional and glowing lambs at his feet. For a moment, I wonder if this presentation is motivated in the sharing of the Gospel but our host focuses on the technique and non secular reasons for the artist’s choice of subject and there is no mention of theology.  In due time, the remote control activates exhibit #5, our favorite. This tapestry is in the center of the room that is presented as a table top display. It is approximately 7 feet square and is an intricately embroidered chess board in play, with a surrounding 8” border of every conceivable animal and bird in minute detail. We continue around the room to the final piece, a lush bouquet of flowers that the artist created as a gift to his wife on their anniversary.  We are within the theatre for nearly an hour and blessedly, Sunny remains quiet and allows our gallery guide to do his magic.  Our host asks us what our favorite of the pieces is and John and I unanimously vote for the chessboard with the animal border.

http://www.kohinoorjewellers.com

During the presentation, our guide tactfully inquires about us, knows that I am an artist and a jeweler and that John is a student and from our “frumpy tourist,” dress, presumably surmises that fashion is not high on my chart.  Before entering the theatre, down the hallway, I saw a gallery of embroidered purses and shawls and I loathe the thought of being funneled through there.  When we leave the theatre, our host asks us if we would like to visit the jewelry gallery upstairs and we accept his invitation and glide up a long escalator to the second floor. The vast upstairs gallery glitters with jewelry cases and he leads us to a bank of cases displaying silver earrings and bracelets set with semi precious gems. Both John’s and my eyes dart around the showroom searching for more interesting jewelry. It takes him only a few seconds to realize our disinterest in the low end commercial jewelry before he escorts us across the room to admire the high end designer pieces. He reaches below the counter and pulls out a very large worn moss green and gold velvet box.  Within is a stunning ruby neckpiece fit for a princess and he urges me to try it on but I decline, feeling shabbily dressed in a two day dirty shirt, crumpled jeans and a less than stylish Patagonian jacket.  John loves exquisite stones and well designed jewelry and points out pieces and refers to gemstones that most 20 year old men would be clueless about.  John asks me a random question about a stone and breathes the phrase “Tucson Gem and Mineral Show” into his question.  Our host’s eyes appraise us with new light and he asks of we would like to meet his niece the designer of some of the jewelry that we are admiring.  A stylishly dressed woman in her mid 30’s appears momentarily and greets us both warmly and warily.  Although we exchange polite greetings, I don’t know what this introduction is gaining either of us.  She knows I am a jeweler and is likely feeling protective of her companies designs and although I carry my fold out business card, I resist passing it to her, not wanting to leave even a few of my jewelry design images behind in a jewelry manufacturing studio.  We talk briefly about our experiences at the Tucson Gem and Mineral show and she mentions her brother has just graduated from the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) in Carlsbad. She lifts her cell phone and a moment later an impeccably suited man in his early 20’s appears beside her. We exchange more polite handshakes and John tells them that he has toured the GIA campus in Carlsbad and that he is considering going there after he finishes at S.F.S.U.  As a precaution, when I travel abroad, I wear little or no jewelry and they ask me where my shop is located and I explain that my jewelry sales are mostly online and at weekend fairs and festivals. She asks the address of my web site and writes it down and I am again tempted to reach into my purse and hand them a card to validate myself, but do not. We thank them for their time, compliment them on their elegant designs and make our exit as gracefully as possible. We have been within this gallery complex for close to 1 ½ hours and have not seen a single other customer, but when we step onto the down escalator, I see our original host gliding up and a trail of some 25 tourists following behind. I smile inwardly, hoping that he has more success with them than he has had with us.

Before dropping us at our hotel, Sunny passes us an evaluation form to fill out. Each of our guides has requested that we fill out these reviews, explaining that they are required by the company and each time, I feel that I cannot be truthful because our answers are not confidential. I find it interesting when I ask him the name of the Jewelry and Embroidery gallery that we just visited and he cautions me not to mention that we visited there, lest he get into trouble. I check excellent in each of the boxes and hand the review sheet back to Sunny.

We are resigned to dinner at the hotel and remembering the affordable mojitos that we enjoyed at the Trident Hotel in Udaiper, we sit in the lounge and order two without referring to the menu. The drinks that arrive are disappointedly small and accompanied by a dish of potato chips and nuts but the bill is disappointedly large. The lesson learned tonight is that although the Trident Hotels may look the same, their bar and restaurant prices are not. After carefully examining the a la carte menu we opt for the buffet dinner which although pricy, is excellent and opulent and we consume large amounts of salad and raw vegetables, a luxury that we have been missing.

Friday, January 18th – Jaipur

I hear rain during the night and it is raining lightly when we get up. At 8:30 A.M. our guide and driver arrive for our drive to the Amber Fort. Today’s guide is especially knowledgeable and easy to understand. On our way to the fort we stop to admire the salmon pink façade of Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds. All of the public buildings, gateways, and palaces in Jaipur are painted this color, a color of welcome. This ornate and honeycombed palace is not much more than a narrow façade where the women of the royal household would go to watch processions on the street below.

Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds

The sun is breaking through the clouds when we arrive at the base of the Amber fort. There is already a line of tourists waiting for the elephant ride up to the fort. While our guide gets our tickets, John and I take turns waiting in the human line so that the other can take photos of the elephants milling within a stone courtyard, also waiting their turn for a fare.

Elephant passenger loading platform

Our guide tells us that an elephant is only allowed 5 trips to the fort each day, or to work until 12:00 P.M; whichever comes first.  Many of the elephants have colorfully painted heads and trunks and John reminds me that elephants love to be washed and painted, but only if they are painted well and that they can tell the difference I must have missed this important bit of trivia earlier on our trip. As we wait in line, we talk with some business majors from Harvard, share stories, and the line moves quickly. From a raised stone platform, John and I climb aboard our elephant. We are disappointed that it is not one of the painted ones but we scoot sidesaddle, onto the pristine white sheeted seat, atop our elephant.  As touristy as this may be it is great fun and we laugh and sway with the rhythm of our pachyderm as it lumbers along the ancient stone road curving up towards the castle.

Elephant returning from the Amber Fort

Elephants waiting for a fare

It starts to sprinkle slightly and I point to an ominous black cloud above and beyond. Several minutes later, the heavens open up in a deluge of rain. Our elephant guide is slow to hand us an umbrella, tucked underneath the padded blankets of our seat, and even slower to pull out the canvas tarp that other guides immediately threw over their passengers to protect them from the rain. We struggle to pull our feet up and under the protection of the tarp when suddenly the rain turns to hail. We are still laughing and having a wonderful time, but John’s only pair of shoes are soaked as well as his heavy cotton sweatshirt.  The rain abates when we arrive at the vast castle courtyard and climb off of our elephant. Just before we get to the offloading platform our driver asks for a tip and I see signs that say “no tipping.”  Nevertheless, I hand him 100 rupees, the equivalent of two dollars and he suggests that I give him more. I smile and decline telling him that our city guide told us that this was the expected amount.  He smiles agreeably but I can’t blame him for trying. We dismount onto a stone platform, level with the elephants back and I see that the pristine white sheet is now smeared with mud.

Raining on the elephant parade

Marty and John riding an elephant to the Amber Fort

The Impressive Amber Fort was built in 1728 and is a combination of Rajput and Mughal architecture. We are in the vast and formal walled courtyard. The fortress is surrounded on three sides by mountains and the ancient guard walls and towers still stand proudly. The panoramic views of Jaipur city, a jumble of indistinct pink and blue block buildings, are stunning in the valley below. A manmade lake with a center island is at the base of the fortress wall. The island is a formal Mughal garden, used as a pleasure island for Royalty in time of peace. During periods of siege, dams could be opened and the water would flood into the valley, damping the gunpowder and hindering the progress of the invading forces.

City view of Jaipur in the valley beyond

Immense Amber Fort Courtyard and surrounding mountains

Island Mughal Garden

We enter an immense open courtyard with a raised gallery of scalloped arcades, designed for large political gatherings.

Covered arcade, Amber Fort

Covered gallery, Amber Fort

The most beautiful of the courtyards is the stunning, Sheesh Mahal, the hall of mirrors. This courtyard and hall was designed for pleasure alone. The pale marble facade sparkles with thousands of convex mirrors and intricate mosaics. An expansive Mughal garden is the focal point of this pleasurable courtyard and marble aqueducts and trimmed hedges geometrically define the garden. Our guide tells us that a drip system was engineered to cool the hall during the extreme heat of the summer and that the fountains were anointed with fragrant essential oils that circulated in the garden.

John at the Sheesh Mahal, Hall of Mirrors

Passage way – Sheesh Majal

Mughal gardens – Sheesh Majal

We visit the private courtyards for the Maharaja, his 12 wives and the castle servants and guards. A maze of cloistered corridors, are designed to lead from each of the wives quarters to the Kings chambers. The narrow corridors are designed so that when the King sent a servant girl to fetch one wife, so that his other wives would not know.

Detail of pierced stone window

Pierced stone window

When we leave the palace we see a snake charmer, charming the tourists more than his cobra. The snake’s fangs have been removed and I surmise it is not a very happy snake. I hope our tips will afford the snake a fat mouse. John kneels down beside the young man to pet the snake and I take the expected photos but when it is my turn, the snake has had enough and hisses at me. Instinctively, I pull back although I have little fear of snakes. The handsome snake charmer puts his snake back into its covered basket and waits for the next tourist to bite.

John and the Snake Charmer

Snake Charmer and Cobra

Marty and the Snake Charmer

Amusing Peacock Chairs

We visit the Jantar Mantar, a bazar, outdoor, astrological observatory built in the 18th century by the Maharaja Jai Singh. This world heritage site would be best visited on a sunny afternoon but the sky threatens more rain. John is still wet and cold from the earlier downpour during our elephant ride to the Amber fort. He squeezes into a dry jacket of mine and warms slightly. Fortunately, we have intermittent moments of sunshine so that we are able to see the demarcations of shadows and to some degree, understand the concept of this remarkable astrological site.  Unfortunately, the battery in my camera flashes “exhausted” and shuts down.  These are the only two photos I have of this remarkable site.

Monumental Sundial at Jantar Mantar

Astrological demarkations of the heavens

The Maharaja contracted scientist from around the country to help build this observatory. There are two monumental sundials with curved polished marble extensions, carefully delineated with marks dividing the hours into minutes and into second intervals.  The smaller of the two must be 20 feet high with two minute accuracy, and the larger one, 10 times the height of the first has a 2 second accuracy. 12 smaller astrological sundials chart the individual signs of the zodiac and since January is the sign of Capricorn, this dial only, is showing a shadowed demarcation.  There are numerous other monumental astrological devices that our guide explains to us and I think of Dianne Wooden, our Astrophysicist friend, and wished she were here to share and explain this site to us.  My camera battery dies here and for the rest of the day, we use Johns cell phone to take photos.
The City Palace, the former royal residence is across the street from the observatory. I am reaching palace saturation, but each fort and palace offers something unique and remarkable. The highlight of this palace is an interior courtyard with 4 striking interior doorways, representing winter, summer, spring and fall. Three stunning peacocks crown the massive summer doorway. The bas relief peacocks are painted hues of brilliant blues, greens and gold into the scalloped, ornately frescoed archway. Our visit to the costume gallery is quick but the armory museum has a wonderful collection of weapons, all of them intricately engraved, carved and inlaid; pieces of lethal jewelry.

Our city tour is at an end and our guide and driver expect to take us back to the safety of the Mandawa Haveli hotel but John and I ask to be let out in the old town. It is nearly dark and both guide and driver are concerned for our safety but we are insistent and assure them that we will be fine.  We walk along the main market street, first in one direction and then cross over and walk back on the other side. It is wonderful to be on our own exploring the market by night. The tiny shops are brightly lit and crammed with interesting goods. One stretch of shops sells only galvanized kitchen goods, another stretch sells automotive parts and another area of shops sells brass Hindu Deities. John pokes into several brass figurine shops and after much haggling and decision making, he buys an assortment of bronze deities; Ganesha, Shiva, Lakshmi, Vishnu and Hanuman.  I am John’s banker and our cash is running low and I look for an ATM, but the first one I come to is out of money and a second one is out of order. I am a little worried since our rupees are going quickly and I will need to find a working ATM before we drive to Agra in the morning. We guess that we are only half a mile from our hotel and the shops continue to be interesting so instead of taking a tut-tut, we decide to walk back through the ancient city gate to our hotel. We turn left after the gate and walk several long and rather dark blocks until we see our hotel. We have a second, non memorable, but not overly expensive, dinner in the hotel restaurant and retire to our palatial room for the night.

Thursday, January 17th – Manvar Desert Camp onto Jaipur

The chatter and laughter of the French tourists at 6:00 A.M. is not quite as pleasant as it was last night. John curses and pulls a pillow over his head but our alarm is set for 6:30 and I rouse him shortly so that we can take a sunrise camel ride before breakfast. We down quick cups of coffee before trudging, through the sand, towards two waiting camels.

John and Marty atop a dromedary camel

We are hopeful that we will each get a camel but camel number two is reserved for other guests and John and I ride together.  Our dromedary, (one humped) camel, is colorfully outfitted with tassels and a tapestry blanket and we both climb aboard awkwardly. Two years ago, I traveled to Egypt where I was chosen to be one of 8 camels riders for a two day documentary filming of the Frankincense Trail; an infomercial for Young Living Oils. I adore these amusing beasts and am not a novice at camel riding. John sits in front and our “ship of the desert” lunges forward and then rocks backwards as it rises to its feet.

Morning camel safari

The camel driver, a slight elderly man wearing loose fitting white cotton pants and kaki jacket, leads our camel out of the camp and into the desert. The soft gray morning light is lovely and John and I laugh as we adjust to the unfamiliar sway and rocking of the camel’s gait. Our guide leans forward to gain traction in the sand as we mount a small hill. We too lean forward to center our weight and to prevent sliding off the back and I tell John about a fellow camel rider in the filming of the Young Living, Frankincense Oil film, who’s saddle came uncinched and who slid and tumbled off his lofty beast and onto the dunes.

Sunrise on the desert Silvery scrub brush and small trees grace the landscape and the sun is peeking over the horizon. Below and beyond is a tidy walled family compound that is apparently on our route.  When we arrive at the compound, two colorfully dressed women, one veiled, peek cautiously from inside the gate. From our vantage point atop the camel, John and I can see over the whitewashed adobe wall and into the immaculate courtyard. The rectangular brick house within is rather large and I surmise that this is the family compound of a prosperous family.

Women looking out

Family compound

Morning view of Manvar Tented Campsite

John and our camel driver

Bedroom Camel Eyes

The French tourists are gone and the breakfast buffet is sparse and picked over and the instant coffee is tepid.  Nevertheless, we have had a fun Disneyesque desert camp experience.

At 10:00 A.M. we climb into the back of the jeep to return to the resort. There are children going to school and when the jeep slows to allow goats to cross the dirt road, several children run up along side of our jeep. John is in the process of giving pens and pencils to the children but our driver is not aware of this and pulls away quickly before John can distribute all of the pens pencils.  John tosses a handful of pencils out the back of the jeep and a dozen children run excitedly towards the treasure. In retrospect I worry that some of the children may have picked up a handful and others gotten none.

It’s not quite a 2 hour drive back to Jodhpur and we make it without incident.  I type most of the way, no longer as anxious over passing vehicles in the presence of head oncoming traffic.

Jodhpur Old Town in the rain

Jodhpur roof tops in the rain

It is raining when we arrive in Jodhpur but we ask to return to the old town for lunch. John and I slosh through puddles together and make our way back to Nirvana, our familiar roof top restaurant.  Nirvana is deserted except for the two of us and the waiter seems surprised to have foreign customers in the inclimate weather. We sidestep leaks in canvas roof and peer down into the flooding market below. John sips on a hot drink; we eat hastily and wade through more puddles on our way back to our waiting car.

John drinking chai in the rain at Nirvana Restaurant, Jodhpur

The domestic Jodhpur airport is small and we are met by an Incentive Destination liaison who, gives us our tickets and checks our baggage through to Jaipur. I purchased a brass fish padlock in the Jodhpur marketplace earlier and have neglected to put it in our checked luggage and when we go through security it is an issue. Security demands that we open the lock so that they may check inside the cavity of the locked fish. John struggles with the crude key and after several minutes is triumphant and we are allowed to pass through.

We have a close connecting flight between Deli and Jaipur. Coincidentally, a manager of Incentive Destinations is guiding another group that is boarding our same flight to Deli. I assume that he sees our Blue Elephant luggage tags because he greets us and assures us that there is plenty of time between flight connections and “Not to worry.” The flight to Deli takes less than an hour but when we land there is a delay in disembarking. John and I walk briskly through the terminal, following signs for connecting flights but the Deli airport is large and we must pass through another security check. Because of the assurance that there is “plenty of time”, we patiently wait in the long security line. Arriving at the front, we are chided for not informing them that we were short of time and the brass fish is again a “fishy” issue.  This time John is able to open the lock quickly and we are hurried through, but when I look at the overhead signs for our gate number and see that our flight is flashing last call for boarding, I tell John to RUN!  Gate 42 is at the far end of the terminal and in retrospect, I guesstimate that the gate was a ¼ mile away. I alternate jogging and fast walking and my adrenalin is rushing and my heart is pounding when I jog in for the finish. As I close in towards the gate, attendants wave at me to slow and to sit down to catch my breath but I decline, simply wanting to get onboard. John is approvingly surprised that I have made such good time. Apparently the gate attendants had asked John if his mother was “old” and he had said “yes,” so I surprised everyone!

When we arrive at the Jaipur airport we are met by an Incentive Destination liaison and transferred to our Heritage Hotel, the Mandawa Haveli, in the heart of the old city of Jaipur. Although this hotel may only be a 4 star, it is my favorite so far. 5 star tourist hotels may be more comfortable but they leave me wondering what country I am visiting?  I have no doubt where I might be when the concierge opens the door to our room and we enter an expansive three room suite with scalloped archways and a bathroom fit for a maharaja.

Our Mandawa Haveli hotel room bath

Our Mandawa Haveli hotel room suite

The sheets and towels may not be plush, but I have just landed on my magic carpet.

It is late and I want to send e-mail home and as John showers, I walk to the 19th century hotels courtyard to connect to the 21st century internet. The weather changes abruptly and a strong wind whirls through the courtyard as I talk with Art via Skype. The keyboard to my computer is gritty with debris when the wind and rain abate and John and I remain hotel bound and dine in the confines of our hotels dining room.  

Wednesday, January 16th – Jodpur City to Manvar Desert Camp

After the usual hotel breakfast and fueled with several cups of extremely strong coffee, we meet our guide and driver for our morning tour of Jodpur.  Our driver maneuvers through the chaos of the old city and uphill towards the Mehrangarh Fort.

View of Mehrangarh Fort

Jaswant Thada

Our first stop is at the Jaswant Thada, a palatial memorial and garden honoring Rajasthan royalty. It is an active cremation site with views of the Fort above and beyond and our guide explains that for the Hindu, cremation returns the body to the 5 elements, air, sky, water, earth and fire.

Jaswant Thada Ghats

Royal Cenotaph Cremation Site

Our guide waits outside while John and I remove our shoes and climb the steep stone stairway to the memorial. The cold of the marble floors is chilling but the visual warmth of the translucent light streaming through ornate pierced stone and windows is lovely.

Jaswant Thada guard reading in the morning sun

Pierced marble window detail

Detail of the doors

The road ascends higher to the Mehrangarth Fort, a massive stone fortress that sits sentry above Jodpur. Parts of this 15th century fort are the current residence of Rajasthan royalty but visitors are allowed to tour much of the fort and the museum exhibitions. We ascend to the battlement by elevator and take in the views of Jodpur City,  a jumble of blue block cube houses, clinging to the hillside below and beyond.

Jodhpur City view from Mehrangarh Fort

Exterior detail of Mehrangarh Fort

The buildings of the city below all have flat topped roofs and our guide tells us that the rooftops are used for sleeping during the hot summer months.  I am struck by how neat and clean these spaces appear, unlike in Egyptian cities where the roof tops views I recollect were cluttered with rubble, garbage and innumerable satellite dishes.

Jodhpur – The blue city.

We spend the next two hours touring the public rooms, courtyards and exhibits within the fortress. The architecture is a mixture of Hindu and Muslim influences with scalloped windows and intricately carved shutters and pierced stone window coverings.

Woman sweeping – Mehrangarh Fort

Interior courtyard – Mehrangarh Fort

As in all the palaces and forts there are rooms for the men with open windows and balconies overlooking the courtyard below and sequestered chambers for the wives and concubines.

The windows in the woman’s quarters are ornately pierced of stone so that they may see out but no one can see in and the woman’s quarters are lack balconies.

Guard  leaning out ornately carved windows

Stained glass reflections

Various rooms house exhibits of palanquins, baby cradles, miniature paintings, textiles and weapons. John and I focus on the details of the metalwork and sculptural accents at the ends of the palanquins and knives.

Peacock Palanquin

Elephant sculpture on knife

As remarkable as the miniature paintings are, we are beginning to tire of these and circulate the painting galleries quickly. Our guide is knowledgeable and patient but notably surprised and perhaps a bit disappointed with our quick exit of the gift shop.

Peacocks crowning a babys cradle

Gilded and mosaiced ceiling detail

Although we enjoyed last night’s visit to the market we are not sated and we ask to walk down from the fort into the old town so that we may experience the city in the daylight.

John and our guide walking the ancient rode into the city

View up the street to the Mehrangarth Fort above

The ancient street, winding down from the fortress is constructed of age polished blocks of uneven stone. I carefully pick my way down the street lest I slip or turn an ankle. John, true to form, bounds 5 feet up onto the ancient 2’ wide, stone wall that follows the curve of the road and drops down many feet to the town below. I cannot see above and below this high wall but both our guide and I caution and beseech John to come down.  A few twists and turns later when the wall deteriorates to an unmanageable jumble of stones, John jumps down and walks beside me on the ancient fortress road.

Woman with child

Jodhpur – The blue city

The road winds between the jumble of blue block buildings that we had viewed from above and it is fascinating to peek into ancient doorways and to imagine the lives lived within. Wide eye children stare curiously at us and half veiled women watch us suspiciously.

Men passing time

Man sitting

Men squat at the side of the road and young men gather in groups, arms around each other and cell phones in hand. The men and boys are not afraid to ask where we are from and to shake our hands.

Women seen through abandoned Tut-tut

School boys going home in a Tut-tut

The main market square of Jodhpur City is bustling but unfortunately, we have only a few brief minutes to take in the colorful chaos before heading to lunch and driving to Manvar Desert Camp.

Sardar Market Square – Jodhpur

Locksmith merchant

Mother and child

Street child

After lunch at On The Rocks, a touristy garden restaurant, we get back in the car for a 2 ½ hour drive to Manvar Desert Camp.  The road show is always interesting and we pass two camels pulling carts piled high with black plastic water cisterns. They trot down the highway, sharing road space with horn honking, “Goods Trucks” and the usual mixture of motorcycles, livestock and humanity. The loads are twice the height of the camels and I wonder how often the large cisterns break free and roll down the highway, creating even more havoc on the road way.

Camel pulling cart with plastic water tanks

Goods Truck hauling uncovered quarry rock

Colorful “Goods Trucks”

I touch type and look out the window as city turns to countryside and the countryside morphs to scrub desert. The day is sunny and bright and the desert landscape is dotted with thorny bushes and cactus.  Interspersed in the desert landscape are occasional patches of green where irrigation turns the desert into farmland.

Manvar Desert Resort

The Manvar Resort is like any of the 5 star hotels, an enclave of lush gardens and courtyards and a  pool with pale tourists reclining on poolside lounges. John and I are at the resort for just long enough to drink a welcome hibiscus tea and register our passports and credit card before transferring into jeep that will take us to the tented camp.

Jeep tracks

Our driver and a Manvar Camp host, ride in front and John and I ride, without seatbelts, in the open back.  Initially, we backtrack down the paved road before turning onto a dirt road for a 1 ½ hour desert tour.  The jeep slides down some very steep and sandy embankments and we see many antelope and gazelles grazing in the scrub desert terrain. The largest of the antelopes is an impressive and stocky nilgai.

Sliding down the embankment – Antelope below

The large Nilgai Antelope

Our driver does a good job at giving us a memorable jeep experience but as a geologists’ daughter, this jeep safari is tame. I have read about this desert area and am not expecting sand dunes but when we come to a series of small dunes, our driver stops. We walk barefoot in the sand and John does back flips off the inclines of the sand dunes. I think that I am taking a movie of his acrobatics, but unfortunately, I use the wrong camera setting throughout the trip and return home with only still shots.

John does back flips on the sand dunes

Our “tour” is to include a visit to a desert village. We stop at a family compound and are ushered inside the walled courtyard. I feel that we are intruding but we have been told that it is the visits from the tourists that help to sustain these families and our guide explains that they alternate visiting different  family compounds so that no one group is overly disturbed or gets all the tips.

Family Compound

Inside the courtyard of a family compound

The hard packed dirt courtyard is immaculately swept and there are three thatched round adobe huts built along the inside perimeter of the walls. We peek inside the largest and I am pleasantly surprised to see the tidy and efficient arrangement. Colorful clothing is draped over a long pole that crosses the room and mattresses are piled to one side and neatly covered.  Three suitcases are tucked into a recessed alcove and a few pictures are arranged on a shelf.  Another of the huts is outfitted as the kitchen and black iron cooking pots sit on an extinguished fire pit and dry goods are stored in a recessed alcove.

The sleeping room

The cooking room

The small children watch us curiously but the mother is standoffish and keeps her face covered with a veil. No one speaks and two young women, possibly John’s age, stare solemnly at him.  Before hand, our guide suggested that we give the family a small amount of money so I hand the mother 20 rupees and John pulls pens and candy from his backpack to give to the children.

Our guide asks us if we would like to visit a blacksmiths shop and my interest peaks. The blacksmiths compound, along a rutted dirt road, is built on a small rise.  We stoop to enter a round adobe thatched hut where an elderly man crouches on the dirt floor beside a wood fire. His wife (presumably) squats against the wall spinning a bicycle tire connected to a belt that spins a smaller wheel that is rigged to blow air into the coals to heat them to a glowing red.

Blacksmith

The man is forging a steel rod into a tool and alternates between heating the rod in the coals and pounding the glowing red metal on a rock to shape it appropriately.  A young boy, silhouetted dark against the bright afternoon light, watches from the doorway. John squats beside the man to see more closely as the man repeatedly heats and forges a crude iron tool.  He then proceeds to put tobacco and coals from the fire into a short ceramic cone shaped pipe.

John and Blacksmith with pipe

He tips his head to one side and keeping the pipe vertical inhales several times and passes the pipe to John. John tries to duplicate this maneuver but when he bends his head to get below the mouthpiece, the pipe tips at a 45 degree angle. The glowing coals threaten to fall onto John’s shoes and the man’s bare feet and our guide steps quickly forward to prevent disaster and John manages an awkward inhalation or two. The pipe is offered to me but I decline. In the interim, a basket of shiny brass pipes has mysteriously appeared on the bench beside me and I presume that the family is hoping that we will purchase one but strangely, no mention is made of this. As we leave, I tip the man 20 rupees.

Beautiful children carrying baby goats along the road.

Boy and girl carrying baby goats

Girl with baby goat

It is late afternoon when we arrive at our tented camp for the night. We are in tent number one, on the uphill edge of this gently sloping desert camp and closest to the main dining tent. A precise semi circle of over 30 permanent canvass tents, defines the perimeter of the camp.

Manvar tented camp

We are delighted to be here although both John and I were hoping for a more authentic and rustic setting. Inside the large, open fronted dining tent, waiters are setting the tables and readying a flat topped wooden wagon into a bar on the sand beyond.  A semicircle of cushions with low tables curves around a large circular cement stage where we will presumably sit and watch the evening dance and music performance. Our tent is lovely with twin tapestry covered beds and a private bathroom off the back. The fading afternoon light casts a warm glow through the orange and yellow tapestry walls at the heads of our beds.

Tent interior – Manvar tented camp

The temperature is dropping and John turns on a small space heater which warms the interior quickly but I question the safety of this and wonder how quickly we will be able to unzip the tent in the event of a fire.

Playing cards together

A desert sunset at Manvar Tented Camp

The jovial French tour-group, begin to choose stage side seating in anticipation of the evening performance and John and I take cushioned seats and wait.

Stage side seating in the sand

I am not a fan of these touristy music and dance performances but I have alternately enjoyed and suffered through many on my travels. Tonight’s performance is the worst.  There is no sound system and no stage lighting and the music is barely audible in the vastness of open night air.  What we can hear is tinny and amateurish so the lack of amplification may have been a blessing.  Waiters circulate with trays of appetizers and John and I talk and nibble. Although we are disappointed with the quality of the performance, we enjoy ourselves nevertheless.

Twirling dancers

John obliges when a young male performer approaches him, nearly pleading that he come onstage and dance the grand finale with them.  A dozen drunken French tourists, John and a few gypsy dancers form a conga line and twirl awkwardly in the light of the small flickering fires.

Dancing French tourists, Gypsy dancers and John

Conga line at Manvar Desert Camp

The performance over, the dancers set a narrow lipped vase at the edge of the stage but make no mention of tips or the purpose of the jug.  I expect the French tourists to take the lead and deposit tip money into it but when no one does, John and I slink off and up to the dining tent without leaving a tip.

My conversational French needs much practice so John and I sit alone at a table for 4.  The dining tent is lit only by lanterns and candles and a dozen covered and heated casserole warmers line the buffet table brimming with the expected assortment of curries, rice, vegetables, lamb and chicken and naan. The food is passable but not memorable and with another full day accomplished, we trudge off towards tent number one, just below the dining tent and fall asleep to the pleasant chatter and laughter of the French tourists.

Oasis

Woman with water jugs

The geology becomes interesting and our driver tells us that the rocks are sandstone, but John and I are fairly certain that they are shale. Signs warn of falling rocks and the hillside above is jagged with jumbled rock slabs. The road climbs higher and a gorge drops off abruptly on the left-hand side of the road. Monkeys sit expectantly on the low stone wall separating road from gorge, waiting for a car will pull over and the people inside to feed them human treats.  I ask to pull over but our driver tells me that there will be plenty of Monkeys at the temple. Unfortunately, there are no monkeys when we arrive at the temple.)

Exterior of Ranakpur Jain Temple

Inner Hall – Ranakpur Jain Temple

Our tour company has arranged for a guide to escort us into the temple and a young man is waiting when we pull into the parking lot. His English is reasonably good, as is his knowledge, but he isn’t very charismatic and once again, John and I wish more to explore than to be lectured to. 

Several of 1444 marble columns

John taking photos of  a carved ceiling dome.

This 500 year old temple is in pristine condition with 29 halls and 1444 carved marble pillars, no two pillars alike. John is awed and I my “Indiana Jones” son explores every hall and photographs nearly all of the 1444 pillars.  He lies on his back on the cool marble floor to take photos of the intricate dome carvings overhead and leans precariously from a balcony window to take rooftop photos of the cupolas. 

The view look up into a dome

John taking photos of the rooftop cupolas.

Monk at Ranakpur Jain Temple

I have traveled extensively and I am sometimes jaded by “just another temple”, but this temple is exceptional and it is wonderful to see it through John’s eyes. He tells me it is the most beautiful building he has ever seen.  We closely examine the detailed carvings throughout and it is a unique panel of 5 goddesses wearing a multi-cobra twisted head dress that most amazes me. 

“Cobra” Goddess Mandala

Detail of the “Cobra” Goddess Mandala

We have a simple lunch at a nearby restaurant and John, tired of the curry dishes, orders a toasted cheese sandwich and French fries. (He will regret this  later.) I order a tasty bowl of mixed vegetables and we share a Kingfisher beer.

Goat and sheep traffic jam

Sheep herder

The drive has been, and continues to be harrowing and we still have a three hour drive before we reach Jodhpur.  The mini-van is in good repair and our driver is competent, but very aggressive. Earlier this morning, he joked that to drive in India, one needs three things; a good horn, good brakes and good luck. We are sharing this badly paved two lane highway with hundreds of “Goods Carrier” trucks, transporting handicrafts and construction material between the major cities. The “Goods Carriers” are 8 wheelers, brightly painted and decorated with fringes and tinsel and an occasional tassel. Many have names painted on the fronts of the cabs. Tut-tuts, motorcycles, goats, cows, camels and humanity also traffic this road. 

Men walking along the roadside

A parade!

Our driver has no qualms about passing slower traffic when clearly, a “Goods Carrier” is barreling straight at us, goats are ahead in the road and a motorcycle with an entire family sandwiched onboard speeds beside us and a truck loaded with tens of thousands of pounds of uncovered blocks of marble is also competing for road space.

An uncovered load of quarry stone

At 5:00 P.M. we arrive at the Ajit Bhawan, a 5 star hotel on the outskirts of Jodhpur.  On route, our driver asks hopefully, if we will be having dinner at the hotel? (This will mean that he will be off for the evening.)  I tell him that we won’t know our plans until we see our hotel but that we can take care of ourselves and take a tut-tut into town and back to the hotel on our own. This plan changes at check in when our tour company liaison greets us and informs us that it is not safe to go into the old city alone at night and that he will arrange for a guide and our driver to escort us.

The grounds and the hotel are lovely but artificial and we know that we do not want to be trapped here for the evening. We are escorted along a winding rock pathway to our room.  As we walk to our room we pass through the dining courtyard where turbaned waiters in white tunics, light torches and prepare fires in raised cauldrons throughout the patio.  Arriving at our room, our hostess unlocks a heavy brass padlock to the massive wood hewn door of our room. We have 30 minutes to “relax” before our escort into the old city. John showers quickly and we explore the hotel grounds.  Our room backs up against the hotels stables and an outdoor kitchen. Two young men are baking naan in an open fire pit, on the rooftop. They offer us freshly baked naan to feed to the cows and a well groomed pit bull runs up and nuzzles John. 

Jodhpur market at night

The Jodhpur clock tower

Dusk is settling in when we reach the old town. Our guide walks with us down the market street, crowded with pedestrians, tut-tuts and motorcycles.  

Tut-tuts waiting for a fare

Jodhpur spice shop

We pass by many spice shops, barrels filled with dried red peppers and baskets piled artfully high with cone shaped towers of ground spices. I stop to ask about a pile of brown chunks and the vendor smiles and breaks off a piece with his dirty hands, offering it to me. I take a bite of the sweet brown sugar and I ask if I may take a photo. He grins and I show him the photo in the back of my camera. A fruit vendor grins at me and hold up clusters of grapes. He is delighted when I show him his image captured in my magical camera.

Beautiful grapes!

Happy, night market fruit vendor – Jodhpur

We pass along shops crammed with mirrored fabrics, colorful bangles, brass figurines as well as tiny stalls selling galvanized hardware, tires and automotive parts. Groups of men gather smoking and eating, at the edge of the street around small fires. The bright lights of the crammed, cluttered and colorful shops make the experience very magical.  

Kitchen ware shop – Jodhpur

Lassi shop – Old City, Jodhpur

I sense that our guide is not delighted with this addition to our itinerary but he dutifully leads us into a covered vegetable market.  Wooden carts are laden with piles of cauliflowers, eggplants, lettuces and every conceivable fruit or vegetable. The market is busy and our guide explains that at the end of the day, the prices go down for the fresh produce.  The produce is beautiful, certainly many times better than what one might buy at a chain supermarket in California and I wonder if it will not be just as enticing in the morning.

With the exception of breakfasts, our meals are on our own and I want to go to Nirvana, in the heart of the old city and recommended in the Lonely Planet guide book. We know where our driver will be waiting and our guide points to a stone stairway leading up to the restaurant and leaves. John and I climb the stairs and cross through a courtyard and up another flight of stairs to the rooftop restaurant. The restaurant shares the premises with a Rama temple and is strictly vegetarian. 

John at Nirvana restaurant – Jodhpur

Near abstract photo, looking down upon the night market

The night-time view of the Rajput-Mogel fort is spectacular but the food is mediocre and greasy. The fresh lime spritzers, served in a glass, ¼ filled with fresh squeezed lime juice accompanied by a bottle of soda water and a small pitcher of sugar water are delicious.  It is 7:00 P.M. and the Muslim call to prayer echoes eerily throughout the city. A loudspeaker, positioned atop a nearby building projects the prayer loudly in our direction and when this chant ends others prayers begin, overlapping and harmonizing and the night is filled with an unfamiliar music.  Although the food is not great, the city view is stunning and we enjoy the concert.  Our bill for the two of us is less than $7. 

John and I navigate the few short blocks through the streets of the old town alone, to the clock tower square where we know we will connect with our waiting driver. He is relieved to see us and swoops us into the cocoon of his waiting car and transports us to our boring but safe tourist hotel. 

Our room is very smoky, presumably from the roof top fire pits and I sleep poorly.  I learn in the morning that they also burn the hotels garbage out behind our section of the hotel.  

Peacock mosaic – City Palace, Udaipur

John and Marty – Peacock mosaic, City Palace, Udaipur

Today, January 14th, is my Birthday.

I don’t sleep well and wake at 4:00 A.M. Today is my birthday and I get up at 4:30 A.M, shower and tiptoe out of our room to write in the reception lounge. John manages a sleepy “happy birthday Mom” as I leave the room. The lights in the lobby are dim and except for one doorman and two women waiting for a car to the airport, all is peacefully quiet.  An impressive arrangement of lily’s emit a sweet fragrance and I can already hear the birds beginning to wake and call sweetly to each other in the pre-dawn.  I sit and write for two hours and eventually follow the smell coffee to the dining room. The Trident is a new hotel, but the veranda promenade leading to the dining room gives the hotel the illusion and elegance of a classic hotel from a bygone era.  Udaipur is further south in a semi-tropical zone and this garden hotel is an oasis of palms, bougainvilleas, acacias and banyan trees.

The Veranda at the Trident Hotel – Udaipur

I wake John at 8:00 A.M. and we head to the dining room together for an exceptionally delicious buffet breakfast.  Our driver and guide pick us up at 9:30 A.M.  Although Singes’ accent is hard to understand, we like him immediately. He is well informed and listens and answers our questions rather than spouting off a memorized narrative.

Waking up to the breakfast buffet – Udaipur

Udaipur is said to be the most romantic city in Indian and is often referred to as the Venice of the East. We begin our day with a visit the City Palace, a 17th century architectural wonder of excessiveness, constructed on a hill overlooking Lake Pichola.

The 17th Century City Palace – Lake Pichola, Udaipur

The palace is a conglomeration of rooms, corridors, courtyards, terraces, balconies, towers, and cupolas. I am especially enchanted by an inner garden courtyard, framed by an arcade of ornately carved, scalloped archways with pierced stone and stained glass windows on the exterior walls.

The interior of the City Palace courtyard

The interior courtyard arcade – City Palace, Udaipur

The courtyard pool is unfortunately empty but the courtyard garden is magical, nevertheless.

John and Marty – The courtyard of the City Palace, Udiapur

Every inch of the palace is ornately decorated and we tour mirrored rooms with mosaic ceilings and walk long corridors where the window coverings are pierced intricately in stone so that the women may look out but no one may see their faces.

Pierced stone windows – City Palace, Udaipur

Other courtyards are encrusted with mosaics, the peacock motif being a recurring theme of opulence in intense blues, greens and gold.

Mosaic and mirrored room – City Palace, Udaipur

Mirrored ceiling – City Palace, Udaipur

A number of rooms in the palace are devoted to gallery exhibits of 10th century miniature paintings, amazingly detailed and color saturated. There are rooms filled with palanquins, others with ornate baby cradles and a weapon museum. This wedding cake palace is a visual extravaganza beyond imagination.

City view from the City Palace, Udaipur

We stroll through the heart of the old town and I buy saffron at a spice shop.

Spice shop in Udaipur

 We walk through the vegetable market and I ask several of the women if I may take a photo and I am soon down on my knees sharing my photos with the women and the children in the market.  Unlike many other markets that I have visited in third world countries, the produce here is beautiful and the women seem happy and are friendly to me.

Women at the Udaipur market

Women and children at the Udaipur market

Mother and Son

Girl with her brother.

John draws the attention of a group of young men and talks with them under the watchful eye of our guide. I imagine that our guide is instrumental in making these encounters happen easily and I appreciate his patience.

John with young men at Udaipur Market

John making friends

We make a brief visit to Saheliyon-ki-bari, the Ladies Garden, where I am approached by a vender selling camera batteries and memory cards.  I have left home with just one battery and am thrilled to find this particular battery for $60, not very much more than it would have cost me back in the U.S.A.  One water lily laden fountain with its guardian stone elephant sculptures is lovely, but the overall garden pales after our earlier visit to the City Palace.

Saheliyon-ki-bari gardens

Elephant door handle

We have lunch at an outdoor restaurant overlooking the lake. The lamb curry and chicken fried rice is not memorable.

Our guide is rather insistent in taking us to see how the miniature paintings are created and we find ourselves trapped again in a tourist shop. The initial demonstration is of interest and I learn that the natural pigments are ground from: blue:lapis, green:malachite, yellow:cow’s urine: white:zinc, black:lead, red:red ochre. The suave salesman is high pressure in a low pressure way and he reads me well because had he pressured me, I would have turned tail immediately. He engages us, showing us paintings and bronze sculptures priced far beyond our means and then subtly sneaks in a reasonably priced item now and again. His approach makes us feel as if we are in a museum not a tourist shop and as a result John and I stay for a long time. It takes all of my reverse sales “magic” to get out of there with our dignity and all our money still in our wallets. After exiting, we asked our guide to take us to another shop so that we can compare prices and quality on daggers, knives and bronzes. The second shop is such a sham and a turn off that we dismissed all thought of returning to shop number one.

Udaipur market stalls

Boy at Udaipur market

Our itinerary includes a late afternoon boat ride on Lake Pichola. I suspect that our guide is disappointed that we did not succumb to any temptations at the tourist shops and he suggests that we take an earlier boat ride. If I agree this will mean that he will be finished with us and his day will be over. Although he does not know that it is my birthday, I feel empowered and I do not want to be swayed. I ask to go back to the old town for a late afternoon walk. He is good at covering his dismay and exasperation and we enjoy a lovely hour strolling through the old town. John spies a tiny shop selling both framed and unframed images of Hindu deities and takes 30 minutes in choosing 50 – 75 embossed prints and spends less than $20.  It is eye opening to realize the difference in pricing between the local stalls and the tourist shops.

Hindu deity print shop

The skyline in Udaipur old town

Sated with the old city, we get back in the waiting car and drive to the boat launch on Lake Pichola, beside the City Palace. I excuse myself and walk off to find a toilet and in my absence our guide mentions to John that, if he is interested, we can visit a knife manufacturer after the lake cruise.

The City Palace reflected in Lake Pichola

Udaiper ghats

Udaipur ghats

Taj Lake Hotel and Restaurant

Taj Lake Hotel and Restaurant

Sunset on Lake Pichola

Udaipur shops at night

Rooftop view of Udaipur at night

Returning to the knife shop, I wait patiently as John chooses and “bargains” for three knives. John eventually strikes his bargain for two ornate daggers and a sheath and knife.  The man walks us across the street to a money exchange office and we wait while he goes off to find the banker to take our credit card payment.  In the interim, his two boys play games on the computer. I try not to seem too anxious about my birthday dinner at the Ambrai Restaurant, close by and noted in the Lonely Planet guide book.

Merchants two boys playing computer games

When the transaction is finally finished, we leave by tut-tut and jostle our way through crowded streets and over bridges to Ambrai. The candle lit restaurant is ambient with glittering views of the lake and the City Palace. We order two mojitos and several curry dishes, none of them remarkable.  John hands me a hand drawn birthday card and tells me that I am the best mom ever. It has been a wonderful day and I feel happy and fulfilled.

We negotiated an 80 rupee tut-tut ride back to the knife shop where we wait for another 30 minutes for the leather sheath to make its appearance.  I reclined and doze on a futon, against one side of the narrow shop, strewn with a half dozen of assorted and stained pillows. It had been a full day and I am ready to call an end to my birthday. The promised sheath is slow in coming and the merchant leaves John and me alone in his shop while he goes to fetch it from the leather worker. John is extremely happy when it is finally delivered and we thank the merchant sincerely, engage another tut-tut and return back to our hotel.  I know that I am loved and today’s adventures have been wonderful.  I could not wish for more.